I played AO a lot before burning out.
Good:
1) The world locations and NPCs are pretty cool. It's meant to mirror real-life places and people in a kind of bizzaro-alternate universe where the coolest parts of every civilization co-exist. I liked running around the Taj Mahal and hunting Dracula and talking to Shakespeare and crap like that.
2) The PvP takes the form of a "Free League" where you basically battle people tournament style. I found it really fun because it involves a lot of strategy and plays out almost like a chess match.
3) There's a steady stream of quests and stuff to do for nearly all the levels.
Bad
1) You start off with a main character but you can acquire additional party members up to 9 total. It can be tedious to gear and level mercenaries. Especially if all your guys are really high level and you gain a new character its a total beeyotch to level that new guy and get him to catch up.
2) There's party play with 3 other people (so a total of 27 guys on your side battling it out in a dungeon) but its kinda weak IMO.
3) The mercs all look the same. Everyone pretty much uses the same gear for a long time, there's an obligatory upgrade every 10 levels.
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