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SuperKenshin

Quick and useful info for sate.


Shot 1 -

Delay: 730
Damage: ~150

Low delay: You can beat any other player's shot 1 if you shoot
after them and don't spend as much time aiming as they did.

Angle fuxing: The shot makes a big round hole if it hits land.
If the enemy is in a slope and you're close to them, plant
shot 1 at their feet and it may ruin their angle.

Bunge: If you need to bunge an enemy on a small bit of land, shot 1
eats more dirt than shot 2 and is more likely to drop them down.

Misses can hit: If a shot lands past them but they're in the line
of fire between you and the tracer, they still can get hit.

Shot 2 -

Delay: 880
Damage: ~250

Low delay: As shot 2's go, this is fast. If you have a small delay
advantage and someone uses shot 2, you can use your own shot 2 and
then beat their delay... even vs. boomer's low delay.

High damage: A clean hit can go up to 300 vs organic bots, who
are weak to Sate (so Sate rapes boomer). An average hit is 240, as
strong as many other popular bots like Armor and Boomer. Even a
sloppy hit that misses a bit can be 150-200.

Angle fuxing: Shooting from right to left, your shot 2 can make a
vertical pit and put the enemy into it. They may be forced to shoot
through dirt afterwards.

SS -

Delay: 1280
Damage: ~450

Low delay: Good delay for an SS, if the enemy tries any SS you just
SS back, but take less time to aim, and your delay wins. Naturally
the SS delay is better than any dual's delay.

High damage: One of the most damaging SSes in the game, 400 vs
almost anyone for a solid hit, 450-500 for a very good hit vs
low defense bots and organics. Even turtle can take over 400
from it.

Giant pit: Not a big advantage but fun and sometimes useful. The
SS makes a deep vertical hole. If you're lucky the enemy will end up
in that hole. If a cake is on your team (or is your tag) you can
suck an enemy into the hole and leave them with no angle or even
bunged (on thin maps like adiumroot).

Easy to use: You still neet a fairly precise hit, but you don't need
to concentrate as hard with the SS as you do when using the other
shots. The SS's vertical firing pattern means you can land the tracer
on any part of the enemy and still do some damage, and the SS can be
shotgunned when from right to left, unlike most other damaging SSes. It
also doesn't have the strange hurricane properties of shot 1 or 2.
If you can land the SS's tracer on the enemy when shooting through
a hurricane, you can usually get full damage from it. That's much
harder to do with shot 2.

Disadvantages:

Shot 1:

- Useless if the enemy is far away and has land in front of them, the
land blocks the shot 1's laser, which fires at a low flat angle.

- Does not dig through land, is easily blocked by a pixel in front
of you or in front of the enemy. A near miss does no damage also.

Shot 2:

- Quirky aiming means you must adapt your shot based on enemy's
distance and your position (whether you're to their left or right).
It's easy to miss half the lasers even when your tracer lands directly
on the enemy.

- At long range, your laser spread is so wide that half your shot will
miss no matter how perfectly you place the shot. This limits long
range damage potential if there's no weather effect or SS to help you.

- Cannot always be shotgunned or easily aimed like direct hit shots.

- Like shot 1, also has trouble with enemies who are far away and
have some dirt in front of them. Your lasers come at the enemy at
about 45 degrees no matter what angle you used to shoot your tracer.
An enemy in a deep pit or with a wall of dirt in front can't be hit.

- Often gets no benefit from force, and sometimes very little help
from thor. Hurricane completely screws you over by making the shot
twice as hard as any other mobile's hurricane shot. Lightning gives
a nice damage bonus, but sometimes the first round of lasers and
lightning bunges so much that a second shot from a dual will miss.

SS:

- No real disadvantage unless you're inside a hurricane and shoot
a close enemy. The SS then tries to pass through the nado and some
of it will usually miss.


Deeper info:

-Difference between shooting left and shooting right:

Sate's Shot 2 lasers always rain down from left to right.
This can affect how close the lasers come to the enemy's core
and where you want to aim to get maximum damage.

If Sate is on the left: Aim to place the tracer in the center of
the enemy's body or, ideally, a tiny bit behind their center.
You don't want to land the shot at their feet or try to shotgun.
Shots that hit this way often do very low damage. Even an SS that
is shotgunned at full power into the front of the enemy mobile will
do less than half the usual damage.

If Sate is on the right: Aim to place the tracer a bit in front
of the enemy, like right at their feet. Because hitting their front
is ideal, you can shotgun from right to left. Therefore whenever I
am on the right side of the enemy, I try to do full power shotguns
with shot 2 or otherwise fire with a very low angle (like 20). This
gives lots of room for error on your shot's power control and makes
nailing full 250+ damage quite easy. Being on the right owns if
you're Sate.

-Angle ruining: If you're close to the enemy and you see them in
a vulnerable position (like they're using a steep hill to get
angle) you can use shot 1 to ruin their angle. An even cooler trick
is this: if you're on the right side, plant a shot 2 a bit in front of
their feet, like half a mobile width. The shot will mostly miss,
but the lasers will make a perfect vertical narrow hole and the
enemy will take a bit of damage and drop into that hole. When
they try to shoot again they will waste a turn shooting through a
bit of dirt. Even when an enemy is already in a narrow hole
like this, it's possible to land another shot 2 and KEEP them in a
screwed situation with no angle. It's very demoralizing, especially
for those with bad movement or low angles (it's great vs Nak, other
Sate's, and Lightning). This trick can allow a Sate player with
low health to beat an enemy with much more life by just constantly
ruining his angle with carefully placed shot 2's. Remember it's
from the right side only (didn't I say Sate is happy on the right?).
If you're on the left, your shot 2 just sort of 'mows the lawn' by
spraying horizontally across the dirt.

-Far range: Already you know that Sate has to miss intentionally a
little to get great damage from the lasers... that is, on the left
side you want to miss behind them a tiny bit, and on the right you
want to land the shot a tiny bit in front. When shooting far, you
must increase the distance that you 'miss' your enemy by. That is,
a shot from the left side must not only land behind the enemy, it
must miss them totally hit land on the ground behind them. If you're on
the right side, you have to make the shot land quite far in front of them,
... the tracer never comes near them, but the lasers still smack them.

-SS: When firing the SS, a center hit is pretty much always ideal.
What's a little weird is that if you're on the left, you can't
shotgun the SS (as you'd expect). If you're on the right, you CAN,
but be careful. A close range, full power shotgun can sometimes
send the SS tracer halway through their body so that it activates
a bit past their center. Instead of a nice center hit, you get a
crappy half-hit on their back side. So shotgunning the SS at full
power is probably bad on either side. Just shoot with a normal amount
of power while aiming directly at the enemy, and your SS will be OK.
My strategy: Save the SS for difficult situations. Sate's shot 2 has
some weaknesses with long range shots, hurricanes, and shooting
enemies who are hiding behind a wall of dirt. The SS doesn't have
any of these problems. Save it for these situations when
a shot 2 just won't be good enough to do decent damage.
The SS is also great for item lock weather, you can make an important
shot for 400 damage while many of the other bots are stuck doing
250 at most.

-Hurricane: To hit through a hurricane, the tracer must land quit a
bit behind the enemy. Then the lasers wrap around the tornado and
hit an area in front of the tracer's landing place. You must
control your power carefully and have some imagination to make 'nado
shots with Sate. The more vertical the shot is, the closer your
tracer should land to the enemy. E.g. for angle 80 you might want the
tracer to land only 2 or 3 mobile widths behind the enemy. For a
lower angle like 45, you might want to put it 1/4th of a screen or
more behind the enemy. It also depends on the distance between you
and the tornado. Try to imagine the lasers travelling from your
Satellite high in the sky to the ground behind your enemy. If you can
imagine a good nado shot, all you need to do is put the tracer in
the right spot using your best feeling or formulas.
It's a bit easier to hit a tornado shot using your shot 1. You may
want to stick to shot 1 during tornados. One very strong trick is to
fire a test shot with 1, then fire an SS through the 'nado. It looks
pro but it's really easy - if the test shot tracer landed on the
enemy, then an SS with the same angle and power will hit for good dmg.
IMPORTANT: If you're sitting inside a hurricane, be very careful how
close you try to plant your tracer. When shooting from inside a
nado, your shot 2 will rain almost straight down and you can easily
hit yourself.

-Lightning: When there's lightning, it might be a good plan to use
a powerup like duals. Sate gets a good damage bonus from lightning,
better than almost anyone else does. Remember the slight bunge effect
from your first shot when dualling, you might want to land the shot
a little closer to you than usual to make up for the fact that
the enemy will drop after the first hit. In other words, aim to hit
their feet if shooting from the left side, and aim to hit a bit in
front of their feet when shooting from the right side.

-Thor: You can dual like anyone else when thor comes out.

-Force: In order for force to affect your shot, both your tracer AND
the laser must pass through the force. If the tracer passes through
but the laser doesn't, then the damage is just normal. So you don't
want to dual every time you see force, like most others would. The
damage bonus is usually small.

-Dual+: There's a bug with this, it happens often (not always).
If you fire shot 2 first, the shot 2 will hit normally, but the
followup shot 1 will just disappear and do no damage. If you fire
shot 1 first, you will get both attacks and full damage. In general
you always want to use shot 1 first with dual+ because the delay
for the dual+ item is added to whatever shot you use with it.
Doing shot 1 first therefore gets you lower delay as well as
sure damage.

-Dealing with angle fuxing: If you have no angle to shoot the enemy
there are a few ways to deal with it:
Dumb way: Fire shot 2 at the small bit of land blocking your shot.
Then the lasers will blast away the land and also do a decent chunk
of damage to you.
Slightly smarter way: Fire shot 1 at the chunk of land, blowing it
away without hurting yourself.
Smartest way: Put Sate all the way under the small lip of land that's
blocking your shot, then turn around and shoot behind you with either
1 or 2 (depending on how much angle you need). This creates a sure
angle for your next turn, and the land that was blocking your shot
before might also help block the enemy's shot.


Formulas:

I mostly use fixed power shots with Sate. The simplest formula is
like using the armor 2.4 method, but with Sate you will use 2.5 bars.
The exact formula works like this:

1. Measure the distance between you and the enemy. There are 30
'distance units' to 1 screen. So an enemy who is half a screen away
would be 15 distance units away from you. How to tell how far away
they are? The easiest method is to right click and drag your screen
so that you're at the edge of the screen (half on the screen, half
off). If the enemy is positioned directly below the circular wind
marker at the top of the screen, that's a half screen shot. If they're
on the other side of the screen (half on and half off like you) then
that's a 1 screen shot ... so that's 30 distance units.

2. Starting at angle 90, lower your angle by the number of distance
units between you and the enemy. For example, we know that an enemy
half a screen away is 15 units away. So 90-15 = angle 75.

3. Fire at 2.5 bars of power. If you're shooting from right to left,
it can be helpful to reduce power a bit because that's the best
way to get full damage on the enemy and ruin their angle.

Some quick references - if you don't get this formula then just
memorize these 4 simple rules.

- Angle 80, 2.5 bars = 1/3 screen distance.
- Angle 75, 2.5 bars = 1/2 screen distance.
- Angle 70, 2.5 bars = 2/3 screen distance.
- Angle 60, 2.5 bars = 1.0 screen distance.

If an enemy is between these distances, just estimate how to change
your angle as a result, for example if the enemy is about halfway
between 2/3rds screen and 1 screen away... you know 2/3 screen is 70,
and 1 screen is 60, so halfway between them is ... 65. So you'd use
angle 65, 2.5 bars to hit that enemy.

Wind adjustment:

- Raise angle if wind is 'helping' your shot, i.e. blowing up or
towards the enemy to carry the shot further.

- Lower angle if wind is 'hindering' your shot, i.e. blowing down or
against you to hold the shot back.

How much to raise or lower your angle? You can use my windchart:



Basically you divide the current wind strength by a certain number,
and then raise or lower your angle by the result. The 'certain number'
depends on the wind's direction and I give the math for it above.

Other shooting info:

-At full power
84 = half screen distance
78 = 1 screen distance.

-Angle 8 or so is a 1 screen shotgun, so if you're on the left and
an enemy is even with you and 1 screen away, fire at angle 8 with
full power to hit them. If they're a bit above or below you can just
change your angle a bit. If they're further away, raise your angle
to compensate. Obviously nobody should be in between you
and the enemy and you'll want to only try this from the right side,
where shotgunning works for full damage.

-If you have trouble shotgunning at full power, try a low angle
like 20. With angle 20, the shot flies just high enough to pass over
small hills like the kind you see in metamine or miramo town. At
angle 20, half a screen is 1.6 bars and 1 screen is about 2.4 bars.


General advice:

-Don't high angle or use formulas on every shot just because you
can. It's easier to plant your shot carefully with a simple angle
between 40 and 60 degrees. Sate requires precision to get full damage.
It's very hard to plant your shot precisely when using max power.

-Watch delay, because nobody's better at stealing turns than Sate
(except I guess boomer, mage, and the guys who use shot 1 always).

-Take the easy, smart shot. What I mean is, for example, if the enemy
is on land directly above you, don't try to hit the floor they're
standing on, just drop the tracer anywhere below them (you can even
use almost 0 power if you're sitting below them). Your lasers come
from above always, so as long as the tracer lands directly below
their center, the lasers will hit them for full damage. Also try to
use the shot that will have the best chance of success. If the enemy
is behind a tornado, don't dual with shot 2 unless you like to be
hated. That kind of stunting is ok for pros who use armor but it's
just too hard with Sate. Also keep in mind that if the enemy has
dirt in front of them, you probably should try to drill with shot 2
instead of trying to smack them with shot 1 (even if they have very
little life left). Also watch for enemies who have a little hole
under them. You can put the tracer into that hole even if you're
far away and you'll still get full damage from your lasers.
Let's say your teammate misses a bit in front of the enemy and
makes a hole in the ground just in front of them. If you fire
with too much power and your shot flies over, you get no
damage. If you fire with just the right power, you get great damage.
If you fire with too little power and your shot flies into the hole
your teammate made, the tracer might still end up somewhere below the
enemy, which means you might still get ok damage. So if you're worried
about screwing up, remember that shooting with a bit less power is
a safer shot than shooting with a bit too much.

-Remember that if your angle is blocked when facing forwards, you
can try moving to the back of the hole you're in and face the sky.
You can sometimes get a good enough backwards angle this way to
hit the enemy.

-Don't blow off the left/right thing as being unimportant trivia.
It really is important if you want to play Sate. You will be a much
better player if you take advantage of the ability to shotgun from
the right side and if you take care to overshoot a hair from the left.

Ok, that's my Sate quikki guide. Go out and be pro with the bot all
the other pros avoid.



Aduka Guide
by Creedo
version 0.6

================================================== ==============================
Aduka used to be the crappiest bot by far in the entire game, and was only
considered a threat if four of them ganged up on your team in a 4v4 game.
Many players used (and still use) Aduka as a money and GP whore by starting
an Aduka-only room so that the combined power of 8 Adukas makes for massive
damage from easy shots. Since one of the major updates less than a month ago,
Aduka is now a usable, legit mobile. It is no longer a sure sign of a noob if
someone chooses Aduka, and I'd try it over the popular noob bots like bigfoot,
JD, or grub. In packs, Aduka is too strong now. I would even go as far as to
say broken or unfair. If the enemy team is 4 Adukas and the game is score, then
your team MUST pick Adukas also to keep the game fair. Otherwise, about halfway
through the match the enemy Adukas will be doing more damage than anyone on your
team, and by the end of the match it'll be something like 50% more. With that
kind of damage advantage, how can it be called an even match? To be fair, I
should mention that the game designers increased the amount of damage needed to
bring Thor up to higher levels after upgrading Aduka, so it's not all bad.
Anyway, enough editorial, on to the facts.
----------------------
Aduka's weapons:

Shot 1: A typical shot 1 that closely resembles JD/Cake's. It's an electrical
type shot and if it hits it will do some damage for the direct hit and then
some additional damage for the electrical 'splash'. The splash effect is
large, so if Aduka misses completely the splash can still hit and even kill you.
It also transfers from bot to bot, e.g: if Aduka shoots me and you're right
next to me, and BOB is next to you...I will eat the normal damage, you will eat
the splash damage only (about 70 points of damage), and then BOB will get
some splash damage from you (much less, 15-30 points of damage). In close
quarters maps like the cave, it's not unusual for a shot 1's splash effect to
ripple down a line of metal bots and hit almost everyone in the game.
It makes an unremarkable small hole if it misses.
Delay: 760
Typical damage: 160

Shot 2: This is Aduka's bread and butter, and a very interesting weapon. In
old versions, the current shot is was actually Aduka's SS attack. So you know
it's probably pretty neat. The basic idea behind this weapon is: The more
you use it, the stronger it gets. More specifically, this weapon attacks with
Thor. Thor is the big laser cannon that floats high up in the sky on every
map. When the Thor weather effect is on, every shot in the game is followed
instantly by a hit from Thor's giant laser. This adds damage to the original
shot... not a ton of damage, usually 50-100 points at first. That's why when
Thor is out, everyone fires duals so they can get more than one Thor hit.
Ok, so what's all that got to do with Aduka? Well, Aduka's shot 2 fires
a 3-pack of ghostly Aduka images. Whenever those images hit something (an
enemy, a friend, or just dirt) then Thor will lash out with a laser strike.
This happens even when the Thor weather effect is not active.
Each of the 3 images causes 1 Thor strike, so this attack = 3 hits from Thor.
If you've played a while, you will have noticed by now that every time Thor
strikes something, it gains "EXP"... like the 'experience' rating in
roleplaying games. When Thor gains enough experience, it jumps up a level and
becomes stronger. From that point on, Thor strikes will do more damage.
Thor can keep gaining levels up until level 7, but you need to do more and
more Thor-inflicted damage to level up, i.e. levelling to level 1 is fast
and easy, but it'll take twice as long to go to 2, and even longer to go to
level 3, etc. Since Aduka's shot 2 is entirely Thor damage, with no base damage
of its own, you will do crappy damage to start with (about 150). Then as
Thor jumps to level 2 it will be a respectable 180 or so... nothing scary but
enough to make a difference. At level 3, your shot 2 will do 220-250 damage.
That's right up there with power hitters like boomer, armor, sate, etc.
Beyond level 3 and you're doing more damage with your shot 2 than anyone else
can... but it takes a while for Thor to reach that kind of strength.
Delay: 910
Typical damage: min- 150 max- 370 (?). Depends on Thor level.

SS: Completely changed since the last major update... this is quite similar
to Nak's SS shot in that it will travel through land as if the land didn't
even exist. Unlike Nak's shot, it doesn't stop and explode when it hits
something solid... it just keeps on going. So basically this shot travels
through anything and completely ignores whatever is in the way. When the shot
successfully passes through an enemy's body, Thor will fire a heavy hitting
laser attack at that enemy (I think even at a low level it's like 200-250 damage
for a single strike, which is much more powerful than a normal hit).
If the shot passes through a teammate's body, I think it doesn't do any
damage. So this is a very user friendly SS, just aim directly at the target
and shotgun with max power and you'll hit them (probably).
The real strength of this SS is that it can hit multiple targets. If 2 or more
enemies are lined up just right, you can fire the SS so that it blazes through
both of them. They'll both get hit for the usual SS damage, so a double
hit would mean you did 400-500 damage in one turn. That's very good for any
mobile. If you can hit 3 or (omfg-so-pro-lah) FOUR enemies, you can
come close to doing 1,000 damage in a single turn. Dude... ouch.
Please note also that hurricanes/tornados can allow the SS to hit an enemy
twice if they're near the center of the 'nado.
Delay: 1310
Typical damage: min- 250 max- 470 (? total guess?). Depends on Thor level.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A quick note on damage, delay, etc:
Damage is based on how clean your hit is, and whether or not your shot was
partially blocked by dirt. Aduka's shots are very user friendly and tend to
give full damage if you hit any part of the mobile.

Delay is fixed, and for every second you take to shoot, the delay for your shot
will have 10 points added. Certain items also add to your delay. For example a
normal SS fired with no delay is 1310 'time units'. If you used 3 seconds to
fire the shot, you are now using 1310+30 time units, so that's 1340 time units.
If you use a dual+ item with Aduka's shot 1, you are adding 250 delay to your
natural delay of 760. Dual+ is therefore 1,010 delay as long as you use shot 1
first. That means dual+ delay is only 100 more than using a normal shot 2.
Always use shot 1 first to get the benefit of the delay.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other strengths and weaknesses:

PROS:
-Good damage late in the game, esp. score games and on maps with lots of Thor.
-Fairly large (all true) angle and good climbing. Getting angle is easy.
-Your shot is pretty user friendly, since it's a tracer you can sometimes
overshoot enemies on hills and still get a hit, and if you land in front the
shot gradually drills its way closer and closer to the target. You can
also hide under ledges and hit enemies above you. Shot 1 also allows some
slop since it has splash damage like JD's.
-You get stronger when others (friends or enemies) use Aduka. 4 Adukas is nasty.
-Flexible and not too difficult to use, all shots hit directly.
-Everyone underestimates you.

CONS:
-Low damage at the start of the game, forced to use high delay shot 2 to
build Thor even though the damage is poor initially.
-In solo and tag games you can die before your shot has a chance to build up.
-Lousy in 1v1 games for the same reason.
-Short movement range.
-No added damage from force or Thor (since you're already using Thor to attack).
Your only useful weather effect is lightning.
-Everyone either yells at you for picking a noob bot or hates you for
using it if you're part of a pack of Adukas.
-I've heard that Aduka cannot get attack power boosted by avatar if you play
in avatar on zones. I need to test it still.
---------------------------------------------

HOW TO AIM
----------

Aduka can aim within 1 screen using a fixed power system. This system has
been quite useful for me, and I recommend it to everyone. If you don't like
shooting with formulas, you don't need to... just use feel instead. However
if you ever miss inside 1 screen and 0 wind, you should know that a formula
shot would have been a guaranteed hit.

Fixed power formula:
Using this means simply shooting with the same amount of power every time:
2.35 bars. There are 4 bars to a full power meter, so 2.35 bars is a bit over
half of your entire power meter.

To aim your shot, you simply choose different angles to hit different
locations on the screen. You do not use just 1 angle over and over again, you're
usually going to be changing the angle every single shot. That might sound
weird, but remember your level of power never changes, so it's very very easy.
Adjusting for a miss when you are using different amounts of power can be
tricky... but adjusting for the same miss using a formula is much easier and
more accurate.

The three basic rules you can memorize to get you started:
1. Power is 2.35 bars. You actually do need to change it a TINY bit depending
on how far away you shoot, for example up close 2.3 bars is maybe better.
Basically, use 2.3 bars but for very close shots use a tiny bit less to be safe.
Also, for 1 full screen I use a tiny bit more power, like 2.4 bars.
2. Angle 60 hits 1 screen away.
3. Angle 75 hits half a screen away.

Measuring with the screen: hold right click and drag the screen so that you're
at the edge. Then judge what angle you want to use (it's easiest to use angle 75
as a landmark, then judge how far away the enemy is from 75. If the enemy is
nearly 1 screen away, use 1 screen = angle 60 as a landmark).

-The distance from your 'all/team' button to your half power mark = angle 80
If you cannot put the all button under you because the enemy is far to the
right, put the 3rd power mark under you. From the third power mark to the right
edge of the screen is also about angle 80. This is exactly 1/3 screen distance.

-From the all/team button to (in score) the area between the first 'team lives
remaining' button and the red number showing how many lives remain = angle 70
explanation: In score it has two buttons bottom right, "b life remaining" and
"a life remaining". To the right of these buttons are red numbers showing how
many lives you have left. Just between the first button and number of lives
is the angle 70 mark. In solo or tag, it's from the all button to the left
edge of the yellow stripey area next to the "F7" button.
This is exactly 2/3 screen distance.

-left edge of screen to right edge of screen = angle 60

-left edge of screen to middle of screen = angle 75 ... to spot a perfect 75,
put yourself at the left edge of the screen so that u are halfway off the
screen. Look directly under the middle of the wind indicator at the top
of the screen... that is where an angle 75 shot will land in 0 wind.

-each 'bar' on your power meter is ~4 angles. So let's say you place yourself
above the "all" button. The enemy is 1 bar past your half power (2 bar) mark.
All to half power = angle 80
1 bar beyond = lower 4 angles
so enemy is at angle 76... almost half a screen away.

-You can't use angles lower than 60... the shot only has enough power to travel
1 screen. In fact, trying to fire angle 60 with 2.3 bars might land a little
bit short, and you may want to try 2.35 bars for angle 60 shots. If you ever do
a calculation that tells you to lose an angle lower than 60, your shot will
miss and come up short.

ADJUSTING FOR WIND:

From my experience, adjusting for wind with any bot at any fixed power is nearly
the same. Using the adjustments for armor or turtle's 2.4 method can work with
Aduka's 2.35 bar shots.

Wind adjustment works like this:
-Figure out the angle you need in 0 wind.
-If wind is up or towards the opponent or both, raise angle to compensate. If
wind is against you or down, lower the angle to compensate. Remember that if you
are using a maximum power of 2.3 bars, you cannot reach certain distances when
wind is against you... for example if you try to hit someone at angle 70 with 20
wind against you, you will fall short always. So in moderate or strong wind
blowing against you, I recommend you abandon using the 2.3 bar formula. It's
still ok when wind is blowing towards the enemy.
-Now that you've decided to lower or raise your angle, the only question is
"how much". That can be determined by looking at the wind's strength
and dividing it by a certain number. The result will be how many angles
you should raise or lower your angle to hit the target.
The number to divide by is based on what direction the wind is pointing.
Here's a chart showing what number to divide by for almost any given wind
direction:

http://media.virtuafighter.com/media/gb/WindChart.jpg

Examples:
Enemy is half screen away, wind is 14 directly against you.
Since angle 75, 2.3 bars hits half a screen away... you start at angle 75.
You then use the formula on the windchart to decide that 14 wind requires
adjusting by 8 angles. Therefore you lower from 75 to 67.
angle 67, 2.3 bars will hit half a screen away in this wind.

Enemy is 2/3 of a screen away, wind is diagonally up/towards the enemy.
Wind strength is 16. In 0 wind, you can hit 2/3rds of a screen away using
the 2.3 bar system... the correct angle for that distance is normally 70.
In this wind, using the wind chart we do the following math:
-16 wind/2 is 8. Raise your angle 8, from 70 to 78
-take the result, 8, and divide by 2 again. 8/2 = 4. Raise 4 more angles.
You go from 78 to 82.
-The last step of the formula on the windchart is to lower 1 angle. 78 --> 77.
So your final answer to use angle 77, 2.3 bars of power.

Enemy is 1 screen away, wind is 4 against.
Normally, a 1 screen shot is angle 60, 2.3 bars. If you try to use the
windchart formula and use angle 58, 2.3 bars... then your shot will miss.
That's because the formula is only good for angle 60 or higher, which I
mentioned earlier. You will be forced to use more power if you want to hit
1 screen away with the wind fighting your shot, 2.3 bars just isn't enough.

One more tip: You might find it easier to add power to your shot if the wind
is straight down, and decrease power if wind is straight up. That's because
trying to adjust using strictly angle changes is flaky in up/down wind. For
example if the wind is 20 down and you need to shoot an enemy pretty close
to you, you usually only need to lower 1 angle, but further away you might
need to lower 3 or even 4. If you just increase your power until the angle
you'd use in 0 wind hits them, then you don't need to guess your angle
anymore... just aim all future shots like you would in zero wind, and
use the increased power level you came up from a successful shot.
The same applies to up wind. If wind is also left or right though, you should
get used to adjusting angle.

Other aiming methods:

High angle method:
Shoot with full power for (nearly) every shot. You change angle to hit
different parts of the screen. This is easy to do because the amount of power
you have to use is impossible to screw up. The problem is that at full power,
your screen is only divided into about 9 parts... 90 full hits you, 81 full
hits 1 screen away. If you use 2.3 bars, there's almost no room between 2
different angles. But if you use full power, the enemy can 'hide' between 2
angles... i.e. someone who is just a little bit closer than 1 screen away cannot
be hit with angle 81 (too far) and cannot be hit with angle 82 (too short).
So if you use full power high angle shots, be prepared for situations where you
may need to adjust power occasionally, i.e. in the example I just gave the
correct shot is angle 81 'unfull'... about 3.8 bars of power.
1/3 screen: 87 full
1/2 screen: 85 'unfull'
2/3 screen: 84 full
1.0 screen: 81 full

3 bar formula:
This involves shooting with nearly 3 bars of power to aim your shots.
You actually use variable levels of power to aim, which might take some
practice. Once you master it, it's quite accurate.
The advantage to using this is that with so much power, you can make
calculated shots up to 1.5 screens away. The disadvantage is that 3 bar shots,
like full power shots, have a lot of distance between angles and you may need
to adjust your power level to hit an enemy sitting between 2 different angles.
You will also need to watch wind carefully because the shot is spending a lot
of time in the air, and the wind effect will be greater than you might expect.

POWER LEVELS:
Inside half a screen: 2.55 bars (so just a few pixels over 2 and a half bars).
Over half screen, but under 1 full screen: 2.75 bars (2 and 3/4 of a bar)
Beyond 1 screen: 2.85 bars (about 2 and 5/6 bars of power).

LANDMARKS:

1/2 screen = angle 80
1 screen = angle 70
1.5 screens = angle 60

3 bar shots are suitable for:
*Enemies beyond 1 screen distance, but not as far as 2 screens away.
*Situations where the wind force holds your shot back and makes it impossible
to get the shot to travel 1 screen distance using just 2.3 bars power.
*Situations where you want to stay as close to the front of a slope as possible
(and therefore don't want to move backwards to get a lower true angle). If
you're in a situation where you're forced to use a very high angle and you
need a lower angle for the 2.3 method, you can use 3 bars instead and keep your
high angle.

3 bar shots are NOT suitable for:
*Close range shots inside half a screen.
*Any situation where 2.3 bars could easily hit (3 bars has a greater
chance of missing because the gap between 2 angles is larger).
*Shots beyond 1.5 screen (a flat angle or full power high angles are needed).

As with the 2.3 aim method, you are dividing your target area into 30 parts...
10 parts per half screen. That means 5 parts per 1/4 screen. If it helps, 7
angles distance using the 2.3 method is about 5 angles using the 3.1 bar method.

Sample shots:
Enemy is 1/4 screen away.
Since this is less than 1/2 screen, we decide to use 2.55 bars of power.
I said earlier that it's 5 angles per every 1/4th screen, and the enemy is 1/4
screen away.. so if 90 would hit myself, 85 would hit 1/4 screen away from me.
Solution: Angle 85, 2.55 bars power.

Enemy is 1.5 screen away.
Beyond 1 screen requires 2.85 bars of power. 1.5 screens is angle 60.
Solution: Angle 60, 2.85 bars.

Enemy is a bit more than 3/4ths of a screen away.
We're shooting between 1/2 and 1 full screen, so that's 2.75 bars of power.
I know that 1/2 screen is 80, and 1 screen is 70.
3/4ths if a screen is right in between those two points. That means angle
75 is 3/4 screen. But because the enemy is a little past 3/4ths of a screen, I
will use angle 74 instead.
Solution: Angle 74, 2.75 bars.

ADJUSTING FOR WIND:
If you're already used to the 2.3 bar wind adjustment chart, then using the
same chart with the 3 bar formula is usually pretty accurate. However
a more accurate set of charts can be found here:
http://media.virtuafighter.com/media/gb/3_0Formula.htm

Notice that when the wind is blowing against, you'll find you should not
try shooting beyond 1 screen using this method. Especially if your calculation
tells you to use an angle lower than 60.

ANOTHER aiming method using a fixed angle:
This method is not a lot different from using 'feel' to aim.
You stick to the same angle all the time, and if you get good enough with it
you will get a good feel how how much power to use in any given situation.
These landmarks show how to hit various spots in 0 wind using the same angle.
(credit to KNAT guild and 0o0o0o0 for reposting):

Fixed angle 60 shooting
1/4 screen - 1.1 bars
1/2 screen - 1.6 bars
3/4 screen - 2.1 bars
1.0 screen - 2.35 bars (you will recognize this 1 scr shot from the 2.3 section)

Fixed angle 70 shooting
1/4 screen - 1.35 bars
1/2 screen - 2.0 bars
3/4 screen - 2.45 bars
1.0 screen - 2.85 bars (you will recognize this shot from the 3 bar section)

Fixed angle 80 shooting
1/4 screen - 1.95 bars
1/2 screen - 2.7 bars
3/4 screen - 3.3 bars
1.0 screen - 3.9 bars

BJSL method: This is sort of interesting and might be the best blend of
formula and feel. Basically, you learn the power levels needed to hit different
parts of the screen using a fixed angle... for example, angle 60. Then you
adjust your angle to compensate for wind. For example, let's say you already
know that at angle 70, 2.0 bars hits 1/2 screen distance. The enemy you want
to hit is a little over half a screen away, so you decide ahead of time to
use 2.1 bars of power. Now you have the power, but what if there's wind?
You can't use that power if the wind is 6 against you, the shot will fall short.
Therefore you adjust for wind also using the windchart mentioned in the earlier
sections. So you decide to shoot with 2.1 bars and angle 67.
You will be trying to shoot with the power level you'd use in 0 wind... only
you're going to adjust for wind also. If you can use feel to make a 2/3
screen shot in 0 wind, and you have the formula needed to adjust your angle
in 10 wind, then in theory you can make the angle adjustment first... then
pretend you're shooting in a 0 wind situation, ignore the wind marker on your
screen and just use your usual 'feeling' to hit that enemy.

One last method: Feel -

I suck at using just feel, and it's nothing I can teach you. I do have a tip:
Aduka does quite well with flat angles. That's because when you fire your 3
tracers with shot 2, the first tracer destroys land on the way towards the
enemy, then the 2nd tracer travels past that point. It too will destroy some
land, and by the time the third tracer hits something, you hopefully are
landing the shot near or on your enemy. You don't need to shotgun your
shot 2, but if you ever CAN you definitely should. Thor hardly moves the
enemy when it hits them so shotgunning with duals is safe even if the enemy
is floating on a pixel (they won't fall and cause your 2nd shot to miss).

ADUKA STRATEGY -

Aiming:
If the enemy is close enough to hit by feeling easily, just do that. There's
no need to waste time getting a special angle and calculating a formula for an
enemy who is 1/4th of a screen away. Just hit them.

If the enemy is far enough away that you're not 100 percent sure you can hit
them with just feeling, then look to see if you can get on a downward slope
and shotgun them. Shot 2 shotguns very well because it won't move the enemy
around much and you have a lot of room for slop when you use low, flat angles
with Aduka.

If a shotgun slope isn't available and you still don't trust feeling, you can
start using the 2.3 bar formula (assuming there's a slope for you to stand on).

What if the enemy is more than 1 screen away or the wind is too strong to use
2.3 bars? You can switch to the 3 bar formula or full power high angle shots.
While 3 bar is more accurate, I think full power shots are easier to do, and
there aren't special power levels to memorize like you would with 3 bar. So
I recommend switching to full power high angle shots here.

Depending on where Thor or the enemy is, you can sometimes miss and still
get lucky by overshooting the enemy if they are on a hill. The tracer lands
behind them and lower than them, and what happens is thor's laser will pass
through their body when it shoots at your tracer. In other words, they are
in the line of fire between thor and aduka's tracer location. If you are
using a formula to aim and are unsure which angle to choose, choose the
angle that causes your shot to land a little bit past their body if they
are on the front slope of a tall hill.

Who to attack/what weapon to use:
Basic strategy: Pound away at the easiest target with shot 2. Use a dual shot 2
if either you or them is about to die. Use your SS when an opportunity to
hit 2 or more enemies opens up, or if a hurricane will let you hit the same
enemy twice.

Advanced: Learn to use fixed power shooting so that you can hit anything on the
screen with confidence. When you can do that, you can choose targets based on
which enemy it would be best to kill, not on which enemy is easiest to hit.
I tend to go for the enemy that at least 2 other teammates can easily gangbang/
double team.

Playing delay:
Aduka usually cannot steal extra turns on the enemy because it's important to
use your high-delay shot 2 every chance you get.
Therefore you may want to make use of items like dual+ to help you survive
a 1 on 1 matchup (even if the game has 6 or 8 players, at the start it's
usually a bunch of 1v1 matchups that turn into double teaming opportunities
as the enemy weakens). Dual+ gives you the important shot 2 you need to
build Thor, but also adds the strength of shot 1... your delay for dual+ is
pretty good, so you can inflict 300 damage or a bit more and you don't get a
big delay penalty like you would for dual. So dual+ rocks for Aduka.
Also, if you find you can aim at almost anything pretty easily... why not
aim for the enemy you can hurt the most? Aduka is a laser type creature so
he inflicts the most damage to organic enemies and the least damage to shielded
types. Therefore if I have to pick between pounding away at a boomer or
pounding away at a.sate ...I'll attack the boomer, because my shot 2 does more
damage to it. The more damage I do with shot 2, the more EXP Thor gains, and
the faster Thor can level up.

If you treat your matchup with a certain enemy as a 1v1, then
you have to watch your delay carefully to beat a strong player who has an easy
shot on you. Here's how you should play most matchups:

You go first -
1. If you play delay and use shot 1, you don't build Thor at all and you
also do crappy damage. If dual+ is available I would dual here. If not,
don't dual... open with just shot 1.
2. From here on out fire shot 2, and any time the enemy has more than +250
delay or so (i.e. you're going before them and you see 250, 260, or a higher
number by their name on the turns list at the bottom left) then use dual+.
Remember to always use shot 1 first with dual+ to get the best delay.

They go first -
1. If they opened with a dual and took a very very long time lining up their
shot and aiming, you can dual back quickly and beat their delay.
Vs someone with naturally low delay like boomer, this is hard. Vs armor or nak,
it's much easier.
2. If they opened with a fast dual, respond with a dual+ (shot 1 first) and you
can beat their delay and get another turn. If there is no dual+, just shot 2.
3. If they opened up with an SS or dual+, fire shot 2 first to beat their delay,
then use a dual+ if it's available as your next shot. You should be able to get
three hits on them without losing too much delay to them.
4. If they opened with a shot 2, respond with a dual shot 2. Your delay
will be decent compared to theirs afterwards, and they won't get 2 turns in a
row on you in this situation.
5. If they opened with a shot 1, respond with a dual, or to be conservative
a dual+. For the same reasons as listed above, they probably won't get 2 turns
in a row on you.

Different strategies for different modes:
SOLO MODE: Remember that once you die, that's it... no more shots for you. You
want to contribute as much useful damage as possible before you die. You also
have to be aware of the fact that pro solo players look for opportunities to
doubleteam/gangbang/rape someone. If that someone is probably going to be you,
you should dual on your first shot and don't worry about the huge delay (because
you're going to die anyway, and firing a dinky shot 1 before you die sucks).
Remember, this is only a solo strategy, generally firing a dual your first turn
is a bad idea. The delay from that is so high many players can dual you back
and beat your delay, or else get three shots in a row by using fast shot 1's.

SCORE: If you can see you're going to get gangbanged (as in solo mode) you
should consider dualling your first turn so you do something good before you
die. If you are pretty sure you will be left alone or only 1 enemy will try
to kill you, then play delay and treat the matchup as a 1v1 between you and
your target. Remember, help is available if your teammates are pro enough.
If you need just 1 added hit to be able to kill your enemy, don't be afraid
to use teamtalk and ask for their help. Otherwise, if you have things under
control you shouldn't ask. Also, if you are really owning your enemy and
have a large lead in life on them, you might look for situations where you
can help your teammates (or else ask them if they want help). Also...
sometimes in a score game, suicide is preferable to letting the enemy get the
kill because by suiciding you can choose a drop location right away and respawn
faster. If you're definitely going to die in the next turn or two,
then suiciding isn't a bad plan. Don't do it automatically every time though.
Sometimes it's more helpful to force the enemy to use up a turn finishing you
off, which takes some heat off of your teammates.
One other cute score trick: On maps with thin land, fire a shot 2 at the highest
angle you can wherever the enemy is about to drop. They'll drop into the pit
you made and it will be difficult for them to shoot out of it.

TAG: Just remember to F7 when your life gets low, around 40% or so.

Other Aduka stuff:

-If the owner of a room tolerates it, encourage others to use Aduka. Having
1 Aduka teammate means Thor will build twice as quickly. Having more makes
your team quite hard to beat if they can all shoot well.

-Remember that you're shooting from Thor. Be careful of situations where
something is in the line of fire between Thor and the intended target.
That 'something' can be a piece of dirt, an enemy's corpse, a teammate.. and
even you. An example of how to really embarrass yourself if you forget this:


(_),`````<-- THOR

_______ X ````````<-- YOU
_________\Y ```````<-- ENEMY

Draw a line mentally from Thor to the enemy "Y". You can see that you're
sitting on that line. Therefore "X" (you) will take all of the damage from
Thor and block the shot from hitting the enemy. Boy does that feel dumb.

-Watch for enemies who use the landscape to block Thor. For example if the
enemy digs his way underground into a small tunnel, and there's lots of land
between them and Thor, you cannot hit with shot 2. You can try to slowly
drill your way to them with shot 2, even though it's wasting turns... or you
can just switch to shot 1. Better yet, ignore that enemy and go with shot 2
against someone else.

-When you miss a shot using the 2.35 bar fixed power method, use your power
meter to guide how many angles to change... 1 bar on your power meter is ~4
angles, so it is easy to judge.

-Even though the effect is small, if the wind is 1 different from your
last turn it can alter your shot. For example, the wind goes from 15 -> 16:
You may need to use a tiny bit more or less power or just adjust your angle.
Also, when the enemy gets hit they tend to sink down a bit, and you
may need to raise your angle or lower your power to adjust for that.

-Don't get fooled into thinking you need to adjust power/angle when you switch
to a different shot. Shot 1, Shot 2, and the SS all have the same weight.

-If you only remember 1 thing, please remember that if you want to get a sure
shot on someone and can shotgun them... do it. Ignore anyone who tries to
convince you that this is too easy or noobie. Why would you make a shot
more difficult than it has to be? Show off your formulas and high angle shots
when you need to, and when you don't need to just stick to the sure shots.

-When Thor is out, shot 1 gets a bonus from the Thor strike while shot 2 does
not. Therefore you may want to use a dual shot 1 when Thor is available.
Also remember that shot 2 doesn't get any help from the force effect, so don't
just mindlessly cut loose with a dual just because you see the pretty beam.

-Follow general gunbound strategy and play smart. Don't high angle when
using feeling or 2.3 fixed power is enough. Don't use an item to kill the
enemy if just shot 2 is enough... unless of course you're going to
die anyway after your next shot. Most importantly, don't toss out a dual when
you're not very sure on the hit. Also, don't aim for enemies who are very
close to teammates. Don't use a fancy shot when a shotgun will do.
You get the picture.
If you want to really piss people off, you can ignore all these rules in 1
shot: Use a fancy high angle dual shot 2 to try to kill a nearly dead enemy
who is sitting close to your teammate. Then your miss can kill your teammate.
Then you can get kicked the next game after you lose this one. YAY!

-Packing items: I use two duals and a dual+. Teleport used to be important to
me, but I find the better I get the less I need to use it. If you want to keep
a teleport in your pack, use dual, dual+, teleport. Dual+ is too good not to
use, and dual is important for finishing off enemies with more than 300ish hp.
In rare serious games like 1v1 and 2v2 solo, sometimes you will see the tricky
items like wind change enabled. Pack a wind change and/or a teleport for these
kind of games, because making the enemy miss is sometimes the only possible
way to win. For most 'just for fun' team games, these items aren't available
and you won't need them anyway.

-Practicing: The perfect practice settings are 1v1, jewel mode, death 40,
SSdeath, solo/score, no items except maybe wind change. You have multiple
targets to aim at in jewel mode and that makes it great for practicing the 2.35
shooting method. Metamine is a good map for practice because it's large enough
and has frequent wind changes so you can learn how to adjust for various wind
changes. It also is easy to get angle on that map. Miramo town is also good
because it's a large map and you can practice 3.1 bar shots or high angles.

Ok, that's it, I hope this is helpful.



Trico Guide form Creedo Site

It is raining now, and lightning keeps on striking my router, forcing me to quit
the game with inukiM and other GBA dudes. For this reason, + I'm kind of free, I
will translate the Shen Pu (knat) 's Trico 3 in 1 guide for you guys.

I haven't really tested his method, because it seems harder than DarkSword
(knat) 's method which I have been using for a long time. Anyway, the original
link:

1. Shen Pu's Trico 3 in 1 guide in Chinese -
http://www.ibfchina.com/index.php?showtopic=44577
2. DarkSword's Trico 3 in 1 guide in Chinese -
http://www.tankbb.com/bbs/real_list....id_check=0&x=0

I will start the translation now. (And might skip some less important parts)

---

There are two shooting methods in GB which have been widely used by the users
since long time ago due to their simplicity and effectiveness, i.e.

1. Fixed power method (Adjust angle, e.g. Half toss, full power, etc.)
2. Fixed angle method (Adjust power, e.g. Mage-60, boomer-89, etc.)

Fixed angle method is harder than fixed power method, users need to memorize the
'distance-power' table and they need to calculate the power due to affection of
resulting wind force, but anyway, to most pros, this method is considered easy,
it takes only two steps.

Both of the methods above are the mainstream methods in GB, based on them, alot
of new methods are born. But, a new calculation is born because of the emergence
of trico (and its users) i.e. Fixed timing method (Adjust power and angle).

Technically, this method is far more difficult than both mentioned methods,
however, a player still need both of the methods as basis of mastering Fixed
timing method.

Let's stop crapping and get into the topic, i.e. Trico's 3 in 1 calculation.

Alot of players might think that the miraculous 3 in 1 shot is done due to
luckiness, which actually is based on certain principles. After spending my time
on research, I found out the principles, and through these princpiles, I come
out with calculations, which are the the steps below:

1. Apply the base power. Which is the power (under 0 wind condition) for
hitting 3 in 1 when both users are on the same horizon.

Left->Right: 1.5 ; 2.6 ; 3.6 ; 4.6
Right->Left: 0.9 ; 2.2 ; 3.2 ; 4.2

(Note: 4.2 and 4.6 are used on tail or vertical wind)

I suggest you all to practice the power above in some 0 wind stages.

2. Calculate the shooting power

Power needs to readjust due to the wind affection. Here are two principles to
remember:

a. Tail/Up wind: Reduce power
b. Opposite/Down wind: Add power

The exact data:

a. Upward vertical wind: For each 2 wind power, reduce 0.05 power.
b. Tail wind (horizontal): For each 5 wind power, reduce 0.05 power.
c. Downward vertical wind: For each 2 wind power, add 0.05 power.
d. Opposite wind (horizontal): For each 5 wind power, add 0.05 power.

You can deduce the power to change for other winds from the data above.

Another thing to consider it the horizontal line, for most cases, when target
is located about 2 mobiles height above you, add 0.05 power; if the target is
lower than you for about 2 mobiles height, reduce 0.05 power.

3. Deduce screen distance from shooting power

After knowing the power to use, you have to calculate the angle. The first
step in calculating angle is to get the screen distance. The data below are
screen distances for different shooting powers, I tested them with
=ShangHai=HongHong (knat) , thanks for his wonderful effort.

2.0 power: 24.0(h)
2.1 power: 22.0(h)
2.2 power: 20.0(h)
2.3 power: 18.0(h)
2.4 power: 16.0(h) 50.0(f)
2.5 power: 14.0(h) 40.0(f)
2.6 power: 13.0(h) 30.0(f)
2.7 power: 12.0(h) 28.0(f)
2.8 power: 11.0(h) 26.0(f)
2.9 power: 10.5(h) 24.0(f)
3.0 power: 10.0(h) 22.0(f)
3.1 power: 9.5(h) 20.0(f)
3.2 power: 9.0(h) 18.0(f)
3.3 power: 8.5(h) 17.0(f)
3.4 power: 8.0(h) 16.0(f)
3.5 power: 7.5(h) 15.0(f)
3.6 power: 7.5(h) 14.0(f)
3.7 power: 7.0(h) 13.5(f)
3.8 power: 6.5(h) 13.0(f)
3.9 power: 6.5(h) 12.5(f)
4.0 power: 6.0(h) 12.1(f)

The definition of 1 full screen distance is quite ambiguous, some say from left
edge to right edge, some say from the left edge of "Esc" button to the right
edge of "F8" button; But anyway, if I were not wrong, Shen Pu's 1 full screen
definition is the latter one I mentioned just now.

To apply the data above, let's say you are using 3.2 power, 90 - (9.0) = hitting
half screen, 90 - (18.0) = hitting one screen.

4. Deduce target distance from screen distance

For this step, it's quite simple, but to make it accurate you need alot of
experience. The way I calculate distance is to use the object in screen to
calculate. For instance, if enemy is located right after "All"button, and half
screen distance = 14 angle, then, your target distance will be 0.5*14 = 7.

5. Calculate angle to compensate with wind

For those who's good in Half Toss, it might not a big problem for you, because
the wind chart is almost the same.

http://www.geocities.com/yuenqe/HalfToss.Wind.Chart.txt

This is the wind chart of Half Toss, the wind factor works for shooting power
around 3.0. For most of the cases it might just work fine; for 2.0 power, the
result you get might have to be reduced by 2; for 2.5 power, the result has to
be reduced by 1. Again, practice and learn from experience.

6. Collecting all the data and shoot

The formula is:

Angle: 90 - (target distance = step 4) + half toss angle (- for opposite wind
direction = step 5)
Power: The result of step 2

And you will see 3 cabbages draw beautiful curves in the sky and all 3 hit the
enemy in 1. As if you miss, it might still be 3 in 1 but hitting the ground.

What I can say is.. Formula can only be a way to help you to gain experience,
to be more accurate and perfect in shooting, what you have to do is practice
again and again. I have been asking Koreans for some tips and what they told me
is: "Just practice more and more." I think this is the ultimate "guide" of pros.
Remember, this is always true: "Practice makes perfect."

Written by Shen Pu (knat) : 30-Sep-03
Updated: 09-Feb-04

--

I hope you guys will appreciate this article and my effort to translate it. =)
Those notes that I added above are in italic form.
--------------
about http://media.virtuafighter.com/media...ico_shenpu.txt
.. it's a good guide, I'm told, though I have yet to use the formulas. I thought
they were pretty clear but I'll try to explain in my own words. If it helps people use
trico then I am glad.

For shenpu's 3in1 aiming formula, you must calculate the power to use first, then follow up
by calculating the angle. When you use the power levels described above, you will get a
3in1 vs an enemy who is roughly level with you, as long as the shot isn't being affected
by wind... and as long as you choose the correct angle.
Your goal should be to use the lowest power level you possibly can. For example,
shooting --> you want to use 1.5 if the enemy is close enough to hit with it (first spin).
If they're too far away to hit with 1.5 bars of power, you want to switch to 2.6 bars
(which is enough power to keep the shot in the air long enough for 2 spins). This
power is good for over half a screen, probably close to 1 full screen distance.
However you will sometimes have wind fightning your shot so even 2.6 bars of power
isn't enough to hit a faraway target. You must then switch to 3.6 bars of power,
with the goal being to hit on the 3rd rotation of your shot instead of the 2nd.
The 4.6 obviously is not possible in 0 wind conditions, and is just another way of
saying that if the wind is blowing your shot upwards and keeping it airborne for
a long time, sometimes you can get 4 complete spins by shooting with full power.
Hitting an enemy with this is sorta lucky and showing off, 3.6 bars is enough power
for most situations.

So to review: The first step of the calculation is to know the power levels listed.
Decide which power level you think can travel far enough to hit the enemy,
but don't use more power than you need to... if you can hit them on the first spin,
that's easier than hitting them on the 2nd spin, etc.

Next step:
So once you have chosen your basic power, how to deal with wind? If there's no wind, you
don't want to change your power usually... the power levels listed are just right for 0
wind. If the wind is pointing up, you need to reduce power by 1/20th of a bar for every
2 wind strength pointing up. If the wind is pointing down, you just do the opposite and
add 1/20th of a bar. So if the wind is pointing 10 straight down, add 5/20th's of a bar
(which translates to 1/4th bar). If wind is 18 down, add 9/20th's of a bar (just a bit
less than half a bar). Basically use less power if wind is blowing upwards because the
wind will keep the shot airborne long enough for your 3in1. Use more power if the wind
is pointing downward, otherwise the basic power levels listed earlier won't be enough,
the shot will underspin and land flat.

For wind that is pointing left or right, you will add or subtract power based on whether
the wind is helping your shot or holding it back. He recommends adding 1/20th for every
5 wind, or reducing 1/20th for every 5 wind. That means that the most you'll ever adjust
your power (in the strongest wind, 26) is by about 5/20th's... i.e. 1/4th of a bar.

Lastly, he is mentioning that if the enemy is above or below you, power needs to change.
For 2 mobile heights higher than you, add 1/20th of a bar of power to your shot, and if
the enemy is 2 mobile heights below you, subtract the same amount.

So all the math in part 1 and 2 means you should have the correct power for a 3in1 as long
as you factored in the following things
*Is the power level you chose enough to reach the enemy,
especially if the enemy is far away?
*Did you add or reduce power based on the wind? He gives formulas for four different wind
directions, but of course there are many wind directions and you'll need to probably make
some guesses based on wind that is somewhere between up/down/left/right.
*Did you add or reduce power a bit for enemies who are not level with you?
Even on metamine you will have to make shots vs enemies who are a bit above or below you.

If you did all of this, you have the power for a 3in1, and you must commit to using
this exact power level. All you need to do now is calculate the angle.

This chart is listing various power levels you might have come up with as a result of steps
1 and 2. Take the powe

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magicjubin

your damages for sate are kinda off

[without items]

clean shot 1 : around 180 ish
clean shot 2 : ranging from 240 to 350-375 ( i was hitting 400's clean shots on boomers)
clean ss : 480, 510+ on organic bots

mispelled word

maple_allan

WTF? Aduka is off.
Shot 1:120ish
Shot 2 at beginning:200sh
Shot 2 level 1:240
Shot 2 level 250
BTW Nice Sig Jubin (i like magiclupin )

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magicjubin

lol magiclupins and magicsoupin was a looooooong time ago
like 2 years

anyways ijji scrweed everything up in gunbound so this guide should go to hell. you cant even ss anymore on the firstt 4 turns