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Thread: Armor/Turtle Guild by Creedo

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    Default Armor/Turtle Guild by Creedo

    Armor Guide
    By Creedo.

    ================================================== ==============================

    Armor might still be the best bot in the game. It's the choice of megapros.
    It's cbchui's main mobile (cbchui has been white dragon/#1 rank in gunbound on
    many occasions). It's what I pick when I absolutely have to win, and don't want
    anyone to be able to exploit a weakness on me or force me into a situation where
    I've got no shot. It's powerful, flexible, and has great defense (it can
    survive two bo**** thor duals). It has some minor weaknesses (delay mostly)
    but aside from that, there's no reason NOT to pick armor.
    So if you want to learn it, here we go:

    Armor's weapons:

    Shot 1: Weak, but low delay compared to his other shots. Use it when you can
    steal an extra turn vs an opponent who has about +800 or more delay relative to
    you. You should also be aware of situations where using shot 2 might give the
    enemy 2 turns in a row, and use shot 1 instead... for example let's say the
    turn list looks like this:

    You: 760 (your turn) next enemy: +40 (they're next)

    If you use shot 2 here, and the enemy counterattacks with shot 1, they will
    probably get 2 turns in a row on you. Therefore you must use shot 1 to ensure
    that doesn't happen. When the delay number I see by my target is lower than
    100 (either +100 or -100) then I will often choose shot 1 to either try to
    get two turns in a row on them or prevent them from doing it to me.

    Shot 1 is also great for bunging, it makes a big hole (like ice/nak/cake/others)
    but more importantly it can damage the land under an enemy if it hits them
    directly. Many shots in the game cannot do that. So use shot 1 if the enemy is
    on a sliver of land and you want to bunge them, or intentionally miss it very
    close to the enemy to drop them down a large distance and dig them closer to the
    bottom of the land. From certain positions, a shot 1 placed right at the foot
    of your enemy will cause them to be stuck with no shot because they've been

    Shot 1 delay: 770
    Typical damage: 150

    Shot 2: This is your main weapon. It's strong, but has very high delay.
    Since a recent update, it's slower than almost any other shot 2. Your main
    idea with armor is to pound away with shot 2 until the enemy has less than half
    their life left, then dual shot 2 to finish them off. The damage is typically
    about 240 for a nice hit, so 2 duals almost kills them. If you have an enemy
    with low HP/defense and you hit just right with your duals, you can kill them
    in two turns. Otherwise you should assume you can't do that and you'll end up
    doing something like: shot 1, shot 2, shot 2, dual shot 2 (kill). Depending on
    how carefully you play delay and which items are available, you may only need 3
    turns to kill, but be careful tossing out dual shot 2's. Armor's item delay
    increased by 40, so when you use a dual combined with your very slow shot 2,
    this leaves you helpless for several turns. It used to be that your dual delay
    was low enough that if the enemy attacked first, you could shoot back with a
    dual and not give up 2 turns in a row to the enemy. That is no longer true.
    Every dual+shot 2 that you do will give the enemy at least 2 turns, and often
    3 turns in a row against you, so duals should be saved to make a sure kill.
    It's more important than ever not to show off with duals when you're not sure
    it's a guaranteed hit.

    Shot 2 delay: 990
    Typical damage: 240

    SS: This is a good SS, fairly high damage (not quite as high as bo****/sate but
    higher than almost everyone else's). Use it when you want to do good damage
    without committing to a high delay dual, or when items are locked out and you
    can't use a dual. It's nice because the delay is a bit less than any dual, so if
    an enemy opens up the game with a dual you can respond with the SS and beat their
    delay. The only catch to the shot is that it requires about 1.8 seconds of airtime
    before it 'opens up'... if you just shotgun it or don't keep it in the air long
    enough, it does crappy damage (around 200). Once it opens the missile will
    transform and cause a huge explosion when it lands. The large explosion means you
    can miss a little and still get a bit of damage from it.

    SS delay: 1320
    Typical damage: 400

    A quick note on damage, delay, etc:
    Damage is based on how clean your hit is, and whether or not your shot was
    partially blocked by dirt. The damages I give are based on a solid center hit
    using true angle vs a mobile with average defense. In some conditions your shot
    will do more or less. I'd say your best shot 1 will be 180 dmg and a miracle
    shot 2 will do 300ish. One other important note on damage: your aiming slice
    has a solid, bright green part and a faded, washed out pale green part. The
    solid green in the middle of your aim slice is called 'true' angle, any shots
    where your pointer is in this solid green part will do full, normal damage.
    The washed out green at the edges of your aim slice is called weak angle.
    This does about 20% less damage. You therefore should always try to use true
    angle, which may require moving armor to get your pointer high or low enough.
    Note that the SS is all solid green/true angle, but also has less angle range
    than the other shots.

    Delay is fixed, and for every second you take to shoot, the delay for your shot
    will have 10 points added. Certain items also add to your delay. For example a
    normal SS fired with no delay is 1320 'time units'. If you used 3 seconds to
    fire the shot, you are now using 1320+30 time units, so that's 1350 time units.
    If you use a dual+ item with armor's shot 1, you are adding 250 delay to your
    natural delay of 780. Dual+ is therefore 1,030 delay as long as you use shot 1
    first. That means dual+ delay is only 100 more than using a normal shot 2.
    There's a myth some players spread that doing shot 2 first gives better damage.
    This is a lie. Use 1 first, but be aware that sometimes the large bunge effect
    from shot 1 can cause the enemy to drop, which may make the shot 2 miss.
    Other strengths and weaknesses:

    -Decent movement (climb and move distance).
    -Decent aiming slice; combined with your movement, getting angle is easy.
    -Massive defense - you can survive two duals, and even 2 duals with thor.
    -Decent bunging, it's there for situations that call for it.
    -Shot 2 is very user friendly, it can miss a bit and still cause damage. Shot
    1 also can miss a bit and nick a nearly dead enemy for the kill. Neither shot
    has special requirements or unusual aiming techniques, they just hit directly.

    -Big shot 2 delay means you'll probably give the enemy 2 turns in a row on you
    at some point. Dual shot 2's are now very risky and you may die if you use a
    dual and fail to kill the enemy.

    -Shot 2 is still your best weapon, but the angle range on it was decreased. The
    true angle for shot 2 is now small and that makes it hard to rely on high angle
    formula shots (since getting a high angle with shot 2 usually means resorting
    to your weak angle)


    Armor can be used several ways:
    1. Use cbchui-type fixed power formulas to aim all your shots.
    2. Use lemontears-type fixed angle formulas to aim all your shots.
    3. For some wind conditions or shooting over 1 screen, use 3 and 4 bar formulas.
    4. Just use feel to aim.

    I prefer method 1, with a little bit of 2, 3, and 4 thrown in for specific
    situations where using 2.4 fixed power makes no sense.

    My shooting plan:
    -If I am very close to an enemy and can just shoot using feel to make guaranteed
    hits on them, I'll do that.
    -If I'm far away from my targets and can get a decent angle, I use that angle to
    start aiming using the 2.4 bar fixed power method. I will usually fire an SS on
    my first turn to hit the best logical target (or the easiest one).
    -If I'm far away from my targets and cannot get a good angle, I position myself
    on level ground to use angle 35 and try to calculate the power needed to hit
    whichever target I think is best. This is a mix of using certain power
    'landmarks' (like Lemontears and PhantomD's) and using plain old feel.
    -If I'm very far away, or if the wind is too strong to allow a 2.4 bar shot to
    reach my target, I will use a 3 bar shooting formula.
    -I try to always use true angle, so if I can't use fixed power formulas without
    resorting to using my weak angle, I either switch to angle 35 or 60 and take
    a guess at the power needed to make my shot.


    Fixed power formula:
    Using this means simply shooting with the same amount of power every time: 2.4
    bars. To aim your shot, you simply choose different angles to hit different
    locations on the screen. You do not use just 1 angle over and over again, you're
    usually going to be changing the angle every single shot. You need to change
    the angle to compensate for different winds, and of course you need to know how
    to aim your shot in 0 wind. Once you master the formula, you can glance at
    the enemy and be able to pick the correct angle needed to hit them in 0 wind.
    Then you can glance at the wind and raise or lower your angle to adjust for
    wind. All you need to do once you have the correct angle picked out is shoot.

    The three basic rules you can memorize to get you started:
    1. Power is ALWAYS 2.4 bars.
    2. Angle 60 hits 1 screen away.
    3. Angle 75 hits half a screen away.

    Measuring with the screen: hold right click and drag the screen so that you're
    at the edge. Then judge what angle you want to use (it's easiest to use angle 75
    as a landmark, then judge how far away the enemy is from 75. If the enemy is
    nearly 1 screen away, use 1 screen = angle 60 as a landmark).

    -The distance from your 'all/team' button to your half power mark = angle 80
    If you cannot put the all button under you because the enemy is far to the
    right, put the 3rd power mark under you. From the third power mark to the right
    edge of the screen is also about angle 80.

    -From the all/team button to (in score) the area between the first 'team lives
    remaining' button and the red number showing how many lives there are = angle 70
    explanation: In score it has two buttons bottom right, "b life remaining" and
    "a life remaining". To the right of these buttons are red numbers showing how
    many lives you have left. Just between the button and number of lives is the
    angle 70 mark. In solo or tag, it's from the all button to the left edge of
    the yellow stripey area next to the "F7" button.

    -left edge of screen to right edge of screen = angle 60

    -left edge of screen to middle of screen = angle 75 ... to spot a perfect 75,
    put yourself at the left edge of the screen so that u are halfway off the
    screen. Look directly under the middle of the wind indicator at the top
    of the screen... that is where an angle 75 shot will land in 0 wind.

    -each 'bar' on your power meter is ~4 angles. So let's say you place yourself
    above the "all" button. The enemy is 1 bar past your half power (2 bar) mark.
    All to half power = angle 80
    1 bar beyond = lower 4 angles
    so enemy is at angle 76... almost half a screen away.

    -You can't use angles lower than 60... the shot only has enough power to travel
    1 screen. In fact, trying to fire angle 60 with 2.4 bars might land a little
    bit short, and you may want to try 2.5 bars for angle 60 shots. If you ever do
    a calculation that tells you to lose an angle lower than 60, your shot will

    -Also, angle 32~35 will also go 1 screen at 2.4 power. So 2.4 power goes
    about 1 screen for almost ANY angle lower than 60 I think.


    From my experience, adjusting for wind with any bot at any fixed power is nearly
    the same. I use memorized wind adjustment formulas to figure out the angle I

    Wind adjustment works like this:
    -Figure out the angle you need in 0 wind (i.e. for a half screen shot you'd
    want to use angle 75).
    -If wind is up or towards the opponent or both, raise angle to compensate. If
    wind is against you or down, lower the angle to compensate. Remember that if you
    are using a maximum power of 2.4 bars, you cannot reach certain distances when
    wind is against you... for example if you try to hit someone at angle 70 with 20
    wind against you, you will fall short always. So in moderate or strong wind
    blowing against you, I recommend you abandon using the 2.4 bar formula. It's
    still ok when wind is blowing towards the enemy.
    -For calculating wind adjustments, look at the wind power, round down to the
    nearest even number (i.e. 25 wind is really 24 wind)... then divide wind power
    by a certain number. The number you use is based on wind direction.
    Here's a chart showing what number to divide by for almost any given wind

    Other aiming methods:

    At angle 35, you can use 2.4 bars for 1 screen and about 1.7 for half a screen.
    One bar of power travels about 7 distance units (15 distance units is half a
    a screen, so it's a bit less than 1/4th of a screen). That fact doens't seem
    that useful at first, because the shot is so close it's easy to make just
    using feel alone. However I use this bit of knowledge to aim my close range
    shot 2's very precisely... so that the shot is diving into the ground just as
    it hits the enemy's feet. This ensures that I get the fullest possible damage
    from my shot 2.

    3 bar formula/banpao:
    This involves shooting with nearly 3 bars of power to aim your shots.
    You actually use 3 different levels of power:

    Inside half a screen (not recommended): 2.8 bars
    From half screen to 1 screen: 2.95 bars
    Past 1 screen (1.5 screen max: 3.05 bars

    The advantage to using this is that with so much power, you can make
    calculated shots up to 1.5 screens away. The disadvantage is
    that 3 bar shots, like full power shots, have a lot of distance between
    angles and you may need to adjust your power level to hit an enemy sitting
    between 2 different angles. You will also need to watch wind carefully
    because the shot is spending a lot of time in the air, and the wind effect
    may be greater than it would for a 2.4 bar shot.

    3 bar shots are suitable for:
    *Enemies beyond 1 screen distance, but not as far as 2 screens away.
    *Situations where the wind force holds your shot back and makes it impossible
    to get the shot to travel 1 screen distance using just 2.4 bars power.
    *Situations where you want to stay as close to the front of a slope as possible
    (and therefore don't want to move backwards to get a lower true angle). If
    you're in a situation where you're forced to use a very high angle and you
    need a lower angle for the 2.4 method, you can use 3 bars instead and keep your
    high angle.

    3 bar shots are NOT suitable for:
    *Close range shots inside half a screen.
    *Any situation where 2.4 bars could easily hit (because 3 bars has a greater
    chance of missing slightly because the gap between 2 angles is larger).
    *Shots beyond 1.5 screen (a flat angle or full power high angles are needed).

    3 bar landmarks:

    1/2 screen = angle 80
    1 screen = angle 70
    1.5 screens = angle 60

    As with 2.4, you are dividing your target area into 30 parts... 10 parts per
    half screen. That means 5 parts per 1/4 screen. If it helps, 3 angles
    distance using the 2.4 method is about 2 angles using the 3.1 bar method.
    If you are quick with math you can convert measurements easily, example:
    I can see the enemy is 18 angles away from me (so if angle 90 hits myself,
    angle 72 would hit them).
    To find the angle for banpao, I can just divide the distance by 3, then
    multiply the result by 2. So 18/3 = 6. Then 6 * 2 = 12. The enemy is 12
    angles distance from me using banpao. (so angle 78 would hit them).


    Basic: Start off the game with a single shot 1, then pound away with shot 2
    until the enemy has about 40% of their life left. Finish them off with a dual
    shot 2. Always attack the closest, easiest enemy, and try to stick to the
    easier to use low/flat angles (but remember, always use true angle... the middle
    green portion of your aiming slice).

    Advanced: Learn to use fixed power shooting so that you can hit anything on the
    screen with confidence. When you can do that, you can choose targets based on
    which enemy it would be best to kill, not on which enemy is easiest to hit.
    Open the round with your SS, since your shot 1 delay is sort of poor and you're
    probably going to give up two turns in a row at some point anyway. Later
    finish the enemy with a dual+ followed by a dual.

    Playing delay: If you treat your matchup with a certain enemy as a 1v1, then
    you have to watch your delay carefully to beat a strong player who has an easy
    shot on you. Most 1v1 matchups can end after 3 or 4 turns. Here's how you
    should play most matchups:

    You go first -
    1. Open with SS or dual+, since even opening with shot 1 will probably cause
    you to lose two turns vs someone else with a faster shot 1.
    2. Next fire shot 2. If everything has hit so far, and hit solidly, the
    enemy should have less than half their life. If you have enough delay advantage
    (i.e. the enemy shows maybe +300 delay on the turn list) use a dual+.
    3. If the enemy hasn't killed you yet, fire a dual for your last shot and they
    should drop dead, unless you've been missing or half-hitting.

    They go first -
    1. If the enemy is armor and they opened up with a slow dual, you can dual back
    quickly and beat their delay, barely. Vs someone with naturally low delay like
    bo****, this is pretty much impossible
    2. If they opened with a fast dual, respond with a dual+ (shot 1 first) and you
    can beat their delay and get another turn. If dual+ isn't available, then use
    your SS.
    3. If they opened up with an SS or dual+, fire shot 2 first to beat their delay,
    then use a dual+ if it's available as your next shot. You should be able to get
    three hits on them without losing too much delay to them.
    4. If they opened with a shot 2, respond with a shot 1 to beat their delay
    followed by another shot 1. You can also safely respond with dual, dual+, or
    your SS. You won't beat their delay, but your delay should be low enough that
    they cannot get two turns in a row on you afterwards.
    5. If they opened with a shot 1, respond with a dual+ or SS. You won't be able
    to shot 1 back and beat their delay unless the enemy is someone with high delay
    (or someone who takes a long time to aim). If you CAN fire a fast shot 1 to beat
    their delay, then make sure your second shot is a shot 1 also... otherwise you
    give up so much delay that they will get two turns in a row on you later on.

    Different strategies for different modes:
    SOLO MODE: Remember that once you die, that's it... no more shots for you. You
    want to contribute as much useful damage as possible before you die. You also
    have to be aware of the fact that pro solo players look for opportunities to
    doubleteam/gangbang/rape someone. If that someone is probably going to be you,
    you should dual on your first shot and don't worry about the huge delay (because
    you're going to die anyway, and firing a dinky shot 1 before you die sucks).
    Remember, this is only a solo strategy, generally firing a dual your first turn
    is a bad idea. The delay from that is so high many players can dual you back
    and beat your delay, or get three shots in a row.

    SCORE: If you can see you're going to get gangbanged (as in solo mode) you
    should consider dualling your first turn so you do something good before you
    die. If you are pretty sure you will be left alone or only 1 enemy will try
    to kill you, then play delay and treat the matchup as a 1v1 between you and
    your target. Remember, help is available if your teammates are pro enough.
    If you need just 1 added hit to be able to kill your enemy, don't be afraid
    to use teamtalk and ask for their help. Otherwise, if you have things under
    control you shouldn't ask. Also, if you are really owning your enemy and
    have a large lead in life on them, you might look for situations where you
    can help your teammates (or else ask them if they want help). Also...
    sometimes in a score game, suicide is preferable to letting the enemy get the
    kill because by suiciding you can choose a drop location right away and respawn
    faster. If you're definitely going to die in the next turn or two,
    then suiciding isn't a bad plan. Don't do it automatically every time though.
    Sometimes it's more helpful to force the enemy to use up a turn finishing you
    off, which takes some heat off of your teammates.
    One other cute score trick: On maps with thin land, fire a shot 1 where you can
    see the enemy will land. They'll drop into the pit and with any luck you can
    actually bunge them on your next turn. You can also make a pit straight through
    the bottom of the ground. If the enemy drops through that pit, they don't lose
    a life, but they must waste 4 more turns before they can come back.

    TAG: Just remember to F7 when your life gets low, around 40% or so. A good tag
    partner for armor is turtle since both can fire using the same 2.4 bar fixed
    power aiming system. Turtle also has naturally high defense like armor, and
    you'll find that having the two toughest mobiles as tag partners means you live
    longer than most other bots.

    Other armor stuff:

    -For most shots, especially on a flat map like metamine, it is best to use a
    low, flat angle like 35. Both parts of your shot 2 can hit easily, and you
    can judge power by feel pretty easily. The shot 2 will do best damage if it
    hits right at the enemy's feet. It's hard to get that kind of hit by using
    higher angles.

    -From many positions, using angle 35 makes no sense, but trying to make the shot
    using fixed power method isn't wise either (because it would mean using your
    weak angle or the shot is so close it makes no sense to high angle it).
    For these situations, I like to use angle 60. It is good to learn at least 1
    highish fixed angle for armor so that you can make good, fast shots using feel
    alone when there's no time or reason to calculate.
    Some simple landmarks to make shooting with angle 60 easy:
    1/4 screen: 1.2 bars
    1/2 screen: 1.7 bars
    3/4 screen: 2.2 bars
    1.0 screen: 2.5 bars

    To shoot at a flat angle like 35, the power levels are almost identical, just
    subtract about .1 bars and you'll hit the same locations. What that means
    is that there really is a lot of room for error on the angle you're using as
    long as you get the power right, especially in close distances. Any angle
    between 32 and 60 can cause your shot to land in the approximate locations
    listed as long as you use the powers listed above, though there is that
    .1 bar difference that you will need a little feeling to take care of.

    -When you miss a shot using the 2.4 method, just use your power meter to guide
    how many angles to change... 1 bar on your power meter is ~4 angles, so it is
    easy to judge.

    -Sometimes a target is between angles, or 1 wind is making you worry about
    a miss... i.e. at 4 wind towards the enemy, your last shot barely hit his
    rear end, and in 5 wind you're worried it will go too far. In situations
    like that, don't worry about changing your angle when you know you can
    easily adjust with just a tiny power difference. Use 2.3 or 2.5 bars if
    you think 2.4 may miss. The 2.4 method is not just about making a good
    hit on your first try, it's also about making sure your test shot is
    so close to the enemy that adjusting for a miss will be quite simple.
    -Full power high angling: I don't recommend this with armor at all, it's so
    much harder to aim these than it is to aim a nice flat shot, and within 1 screen
    you don't need full power shots, 2.4 bars will do. If you want to high angle
    anyway, or are forced to because of a bad position, Angle 79 goes a hair over 1
    screen. Angle 85 lands just in front of the 1/2 screen mark, so you can use
    84 not-quite-full to hit half a screen away. Also, the distance between angles
    gets smaller and smaller the further you shoot. So when high angling, the
    first screen can be considered 11 parts (actually a little less), each part can
    be hit using angles between 79 and 90. The second screen can be considered 12
    parts, and to hit those areas you would use angles between 78 and 67.

    -Don't get fooled into thinking you need to adjust power/angle when you switch
    to a different shot. Shot 1, Shot 2, and the SS all have the same weight even
    though shot 1 travels quickly through the air and 'looks' lighter. You DO
    need to watch out for the angle changing when you switch... because if you're at
    the edge of your aiming angle and switch to a shot with less angle range, your
    angle changes automatically.

    -If you want to use the SS, angle 35 2.4 (full screen) does NOT open up in time.
    Angle 60 full screen does. So if you plan to use a flat angle SS, the enemy
    must be really far away, like 1.5 screens. A hurricane can keep an SS in the
    air an extra half second so that flat angle SSes become possible. For example
    example you can almost shotgun an SS from one end of metamine to the other
    if a hurricane is in the way to keep it airborne longer.

    -If you want to get a sure shot on someone and can shotgun them... do it.
    But keep in mind that armor's shot bunges the enemy quite a bit, so if you try
    a dual shotgun the enemy will often drop down a cm or so and make your second
    shot miss. Aim low when shotgunning duals to prevent this.

    -Dual shot 1 isn't very strong, but it bunges a lot and is a good way to
    try to drop the enemy through some thin land when a single shot 1 probably
    won't be enough.

    -There are some tricks you can use to screw the enemy's angle when playing
    with Armor. This can put them in a position where they have no shot or are
    forced to change their aim to someone else. Some examples:

    1. The enemy is on an upward slope and you can position armor right next
    to them. Drop a shot 1 on their nose (don't hit directly), and they may
    end up being blocked by the same hill they were using to get angle.
    This can also be done with a high angle shot 1 as long as it lands perfectly.

    2. If you do a dual+, usually you will use 1 followed by 2. But if you have
    an enemy with a low-positioned angle like A.sate, you might try using 2, then
    1... and miss a little in front of the enemy. My crappy photoshopped pic
    is not perfect but it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.
    Shot 2 makes a narrow hole, and the enemy ends up clinging to the back of the
    slope that this hole created. Then shot 1 comes in, makes a large 'underhole',
    and your enemy with any luck falls into that hole. Even if they don't they
    are forced to move backwards or shoot backwards to get a decent angle.

    -Follow general gunbound strategy and play smart. Don't use shot 2 if shot 1 is
    enough. Don't high angle when fixed power is enough. Don't use more than you
    need to for a kill. Don't toss out a dual when you're not very sure on the hit.
    Don't aim for enemies who are very close to teammates. Don't use a fancy shot
    when a shotgun will do. You get the picture.

    -Packing items: I use two duals and a dual+. Teleport used to be important to
    me, but I find the better I get the less I need to use it. If you want to keep
    a teleport in your pack, use dual, dual+, teleport. Dual+ is too good not to
    use, and dual is important for finishing off enemies with more than 300ish hp.

    -Practicing: The perfect practice settings are 1v1, jewel mode, death 40,
    SSdeath, solo/score, no items except maybe wind change. You have multiple
    targets to aim at in jewel mode and that makes it great for practicing the 2.4
    shooting method. Metamine is a good map for practice because it's large enough
    and has frequent wind changes so you can learn how to adjust for various wind
    changes. It also is easy to get angle on that map. Miramo town is also good
    because it's a large map and you can practice 3.1 bar shots or high angles.

    Ok, that's it, I hope this is helpful.

    by CreeDo

    ================================================== ==============================
    If anyone wishes to repost this guide, do not alter or remove any portion of it.
    It is only to be reposted in full, with credit to the original author (CreeDo).
    ================================================== ==============================

    Turtle's not used a lot, so I decided to try to make myself into a pretty good
    turtle just to see if it sucks or is just underused. It turns out it's just
    underused. Turtle's not godly or top tier, but he's got a nice combination of
    the strongest defense in the game with the ability to inflict 500+ dmg duals.
    That's a pretty happy combo.
    Turtle's also super fun to play as. Everyone's bored to death by now of bo****
    backshots, JD high angles, etc.. .but how many times do you see a good turtle
    SS? I never did until I hit blue wand, after thousands of games.
    So try turtle.

    Turtle's shots:

    Shot 1: A basic shot, it inflicts maybe 150 damage on a solid hit, sometimes
    more, and makes a smallish hole if it hits dirt. There's only 1 part and it's
    kinda thick, so there really are no tricks to this shot, just aim and hit.

    Shot 2: You fire 2 streams of water that spiral back and forth as they travel
    along the shot path. It's similar to mage's shot 2, but turtle's is nice because
    after traveling through the air for a few seconds, the 2 streams of water merge
    to form a narrow double stream that moves in a straight line. If you try to hit
    someone before the 2 streams have a chance to merge, you often will get only 1
    to hit (or maybe the other is only a half hit). If you find a way to keep the
    shot in the air long enough for the streams to come together, usually both will
    hit if either of them is on target. A solid hit from this is about 240,
    sometimes as high as 270+ but I've never seen 300 without weather assistance or
    suiciding or avatars.

    SS: The hardest shot to use correctly (in the entire game). Turtle fires a big
    waterblob that opens up after being in the air a certain length of time (about 3
    seconds). When it opens, it splits into several smaller waterblobs. Depending on
    the direction and speed of the shot, they will either fall together in a cluster
    or spread way out like the spreadshot in contra. Remember contra? That was a
    great game. Anyway the idea behind the SS is simple. You must either A: Fire it
    so that the spread is narrow and vertical and all the balls rain down on the
    enemy's head... or B: Fire it so that it splits a fraction of a second before
    landing on the opponent, so that the balls smack their body before they have a
    chance to separate. A correct SS is at least 300+ damage for a 'nice try' and
    500 for a nice shot. It's possible to get 700 I believe on a perfect hit.


    Shooting styles -

    There are five key shots with turtle, and you will have to learn which is the
    best in any given situation. For the most part, to play turtle like I do you
    will be using fixed power shots. If you can't do fixed power shots, you look to
    shotgun, and if neither of those is available, you try for one of the other
    shots. The last one I list (fixed power) is the hardest and most important shot
    to learn, so if you only read 1 thing, read that.


    Lobs are just my term for what most people call a 'normal shot'. If you can't
    get a low enough or close enough angle for a shotgun, and you can't get a high
    enough angle for a fixed power shot, you use a lob. The idea behind a lob is
    pretty simple: Pick an angle that you're comfortable with and take a guess at
    how much power to use to hit the target. If you miss, you simply adjust your
    power during the next shot. A lob is generally a lowish angle shot (like 45 or
    less) and you don't need to pay a lot of attention to wind. The downside to
    using lobs is that they aren't really suited for getting maximum damage out of
    turtle's shot 2.
    Lob tips -

    *Pick an angle to practice lobs at, and stick with it. After using it enough you
    will develop a feel for that angle and can make good shots with it on demand.
    What angle you use is up to you. I find that a low, flat angle gives you some
    room for error, so I tend to use 35. I'd also recommend learning 45 or 50.
    Anything higher than that, and you can probably switch to fixed power shots.

    *Stick with shot 1 when lobbing, except for lobbing across a full screen or
    further. If you use shot 2 for shorter range lobs, usually one of the water
    streams hits the ground in front of or behind the opponent. A half hit with shot
    2 is a big waste of delay, and you're better off sticking to shot 1 until you
    can stop lobbing and move on to a different (better) type of shooting method.

    *If you only need a single weak hit to kill someone, stick to lobs (even if
    other shots are available). Lobs give more room for error and are less mentally
    challenging than high angles or fixed power shots.


    Shotgunning is where turtle is at his strongest... it's easy to do and you tend
    to get the best possible damage from your shot 2. If you don't already know what
    I'm talking about, you might use the term 'direct' shot instead of shotgun/sg. A
    shotgun attack is a close range shot where you aim your red needle directly at
    the enemy's body and then fire with maximum power. It works well because when
    your shot 2 leaves turtle's cannon, it starts out with both streams together,
    and then after travelling about 1/4th of a screen the shot starts to spread out.
    If the enemy is closer than 1/4th of a screen and you make sure to fire at
    maximum power, you get both streams to hit, and depending on how carefully you
    aim you might hit the enemy's sweet spot for anywhere from 240 to 275 damage.
    Even a crappy shotgun is good for at least 220+ damage.
    Shotgun tips -

    *This is kind of basic gunbound strategy, but some players don't catch on to it
    right away. If you're at the bottom of a hole and want to shotgun the enemy, and
    you can't do it from your current position and you can't do it by moving
    forward... then move back. Moving back to the slope of a hill behind you lets
    you get your needle pointing downward enough to shotgun the guy in front of you.

    *Use shot 2, unless you're using a dual+ or need to use 1 to save delay. The
    whole idea behind shotgunning is that you can get full damage from shot 2
    without a lot of mental effort or precise power adjustment.

    *Some people may tell you that max power is overkill and stupid when shooting
    directly... for most bots you only need to shoot hard enough to reach the enemy,
    and shooting any harder can have ugly results. Turtle is the exception to this
    rule, the harder you shoot shot 2, the more distance the water streams will
    travel together before they start to split apart. Therefore you must not shotgun
    with low power.

    *Make sure the enemy is close enough for the shotgun, if they're about 1/3rd of
    the screen away you can count on only half of the shotgun hitting while the
    other half hits dirt or flies over their head.

    *When doing a dual shotgun, (or any shotgun) aim low towards the enemy's feet.
    You don't want to aim so low that your shot mostly hits dirt, but if you aim too
    high the first shot settles the enemy into the ground a bit, and then the next
    shot flies over their head. It's important to figure out the sweet spot so that
    both hits of your dual connect. Alternately, you can make sure you use an angle
    that won't fly over the enemy's head no matter where you aim. A nice bonus to
    aiming just to hit the enemy's feet is the damage: The feet on any mobile is the
    sweet spot where a solid hit will do the best possible damage.

    *Shotguns aren't just restricted to low angles or enemies across from or below
    you. You can shotgun an enemy above you too. If you're at the bottom of a pit
    and the enemy is on the slope facing you, just shotgun them.

    *You can pass a shotgun through a small bit of land without part of the shot
    blowing up and getting wasted. Any bit of land that's about 4 pixels or less
    will not interfere with your shot, even if it appears that there's a solid wall
    of pixels between you and the enemy.


    This is a goofy name I gave to a fundamental and useful turtle shot. Ramza calls
    it the impossible shotgun in his guide. The idea is simple: Get both streams of
    shot 2 to connect at close range, even though you cannot shotgun and cannot use
    a high angle/fixed power shot. This shot is pretty much reserved for situations
    where both you and the enemy are close together on flat ground. In such a
    situation any bot should be able to shot 2 or dual for maximum damage, but for
    turtle it's actually kinda tricky. If you shoot the shot normally as a lob then
    half of your shot misses and flies over the enemy. If you shoot soft enough to
    try to get both shots to hit, you often end up screwing yourself or driving one
    of the streams into the ground. When you do it right, the shot looks more
    distinctly like 2 different attacks, the first stream comes out straight and
    hits the enemy's mobile in the face, then a split second later the second stream
    comes out of the top of your cannon and follows a weird curvy arc to land on the
    enemy's back.
    Fork shot tips -

    *A highish angle, something around 50 or above, is good. Shoot with about 2/3
    of a bar power, assuming you and the enemy are nearly kissing. You won't ever
    need to shoot stronger, but shooting a bit softer for strong wind towards the
    enemy is advisable.

    *Please be careful not to shoot too softly or you take half the damage or all of
    the damage on yourself.

    *If there's a fairly large height difference between you and your enemy, you
    should look for a chance to shotgun instead, or else use a fixed power shot. It
    might seem silly to use a high angle fixed power shot when you're right next to
    the enemy, but a solid high angle or shotgun hit is better than a halfassed fork


    This is a form of suicide that allows you to inflict MUCH higher damage than
    usual with your shot 2 or with a dual shot 2. It's basically a fork shot from
    inside the enemy's body. There's no way to get this massive damage without
    hurting yourself, so you should use it as a desperation tactic to help end the
    game or finish off an enemy who really has to die. You can also use it as the
    finishing shot of an already surefire win, so you get more gold and GP out of
    the final shot of the match. A nicely done turtlekaze dual can inflict about 675
    damage, or over 330 per shot 2.
    Turtlekaze tips:

    *First judge how far you have to move in order to pull the shot off. You need to
    be deep inside the enemy's body, so that the blue nozzle of your water cannon
    is aligned with the center of their mobile. In fact I've seen it work well when
    their body and yours are almost lined up evenly, because turtle's shot comes
    from the center of his body (not from the cannon).
    If you can't walk far enough, don't try turtlekaze. You'll just end up doing
    tons of damage to yourself and only normal damage to the enemy.

    *Treat this as a fork shot and try to use a fairly high angle if you're on level
    ground. Naturally you can adjust the angle if the enemy is on a downslope or
    upslope relative to your body. The idea is to aim the needly roughly in the
    center of their mobile and a bit above horizontal. Once you're inside their body
    and have chosen an angle, just lightly tap space (if using slice) or left click
    the mouse (if drag) to shoot with 0 or near-0 power. It may be better to have
    a tiny bit of power than to have absolute 0.


    High angle shots are common for all bots, and if you're experienced at high
    angling with someone else (like j.d) then you'll find turtle is very similar.
    High angling is just shooting at full power, but at a very steep angle (usually
    higher than 70). The angle you choose determines where the shot will land. 89
    will hit someone right next to you. Angle 79, full power, hits roughly 1 screen
    away. In between is angle 84 (unfull), which you can think of as half a screen.
    The rest you can estimate for yourself. Wind adjustment is complex and I'll
    cover it in the fixed power section coming up next. Wind adjustment for high
    angles is the same as adjusting for the lower fixed power shots. The nice thing
    about high angling is that no matter what angle you choose to shoot at, your
    shot 2 always spends enough time in the air to merge together into a tight dual
    high angle tips:

    *Don't high angle if you don't have to, fixed power shots and even long range
    lobs are easier than turtle's high angles. A fixed power shot has a very small
    difference between 1 degree. High angle shots have a lot of difference and the
    enemy can actually sit between one angle and the next, so that you're forced to
    adjust both angle and power in order to land a hit. High angles are also less
    predictable than fixed power shots and you're more likely to miss badly and/or

    *Beyond 1 screen, choosing an angle is difficult and it's hard to predict where
    shots will land without a lot of testing and experience. The shot seems to lose
    power as it travels, so while 1 screen is exactly 11 angles... 2 screens is not
    22 angles. I think of the first screen as 11 angles and the second screen as
    12 angles, so 1.5 screens would be 11+6 ... 17 angles. You may find using
    3 bar shots easier than high angles for distances up to 1.5 screens. I outline
    3 bar shots later in the fixed power section.

    *If your max power high angle lands juuust barely in front of the opponent, you
    have 2 solutions. The first is to physically move your mobile forward a bit,
    then try the same shot on your next turn. The second solution is to lower your
    angle by 1 degree, then fire again at about 1/5th bar less than full power. If
    you lower 1 angle and fire at full power, the shot goes past the target. So you
    must fire with less power (about 3.8 bars) to plant the shot where it needs to
    go. A shot fired using this method is usually called an 'unfull' high angle,
    i.e: "85 full lands just in front of him and 84 full lands just behind him, but
    84 unfull will hit him".

    *If you're getting frustrated trying to find just the right blend of angle and
    power and the wind never seems to cooperate and you keep barely missing the
    enemy, don't be afraid to switch to a long range lob. At 1.5 screens away, your
    shot 2 has enough time to merge together even if you shoot at the enemy with a
    fairly low angle like 45. You might find that easier than doing all the mental
    gymnastics needed to make a clean high angle shot.


    This is the key to playing really good turtle, I think. Traditional turtle style
    has been to high angle anything you can't shotgun, or else shoot by feeling
    using less than full power and try to get lucky with shot 2. Using the fixed
    power method, you can get better accuracy than merely shooting with feeling, and
    at the same time you still get the shot 2 to spend enough time in the air to
    merge together and connect for a solid damaging hit. You also don't need to
    struggle so much for angle when using fixed power method... if you need to hit
    an enemy half a screen away with high angles, then you must be able to attain
    angle 85 in a 0 wind situation. Using fixed power, you only need enough slope to
    reach angle 75.
    So what is it? Fixed power means using the same power for every shot, and merely
    changing your angle to aim at different areas on the screen or to adjust for
    missed shots. It seems like a backwards style of shooting if you learned by
    using the same angle and varying power (like 99% of gunbound players do).
    Benefits of fixed power method:

    *Assuming wind isn't too tricky, you can get super accurate shots without a test
    shot and fire off duals with confidence. You can nail anyone within 1 screen
    distance once you master this. If wind cooperates and you have angle, you can go
    an entire game without a miss. You'll look and feel PRO ^_^

    *Your shot spends enough time in the air to allow your shot 2 streams to merge
    together. Your shot 2's will hit for maximum damage.

    *You get a high angle bonus for most shots, which is a nice way to earn extra
    gold with every shot.

    The following is stolen from an armor guide I wrote. Turtle can use the exact
    same shooting method with (nearly?) the exact same power to get accurate hits.
    Turtle may need to adjust by firing with 2 or 3 pixels less power. It's hard to
    say, I seem to be doing fine with the same power my armor uses.

    2.4 bar fixed power method:

    Always use 2.4 bars power for shots within 1 screen distance.


    1 screen = angle 60 - measure by putting your mobile half off the edge of the
    screen and if the enemy mobile is half off the other edge, that's considered a 1
    screen shot.

    edge of the screen to end of your power meter = 66 - right click and drag until
    you're at the left edge of the screen. If the enemy is over the end of your
    power meter, that's an angle 66 shot. If you're on the right edge of the screen,
    check to see if the enemy is over the line that divides the light blue from the
    dark blue section at the beginning of your power meter. That's also angle 66.

    half screen = 75 - you can measure this by using right click and dragging
    yourself to the edge of the screen (half off the screen again)... if the enemy
    is under the center of the wind marker, that's angle 75.

    All button to half power mark = 80 - right click and drag your all/teamtalk
    button under yourself or your enemy, whoever is further to the left. Let's say
    it's you. If the target is over the half power (2nd bar) mark of your power bar,
    that makes for a perfect angle 80 shot.

    Width of your item meter = 82 - right click and drag the screen so that the item
    meter is hovering over you and the opponent. If both of you barely 'fit' inside
    the left and right edge of the item meter, that's a perfect angle 82 shot. Of
    course you could just as easily use the angle 80 measurement above and then
    eyeball it to determine how many degrees to raise.

    With so many markers you should be able to calculate slight angle differences
    easily, but just to help: 1 bar on your power meter is about 4 angles, maybe a
    hair less. So let's say the enemy is 1 bar past the half screen marker. That
    would be angle 75 - 4 degrees = angle 71.

    It also is a good idea (if you don't consider it cheating) to make a piece of
    paper as wide as your screen and mark the 85, 80, 75, 70, and 65 spots. Make
    sure gunbound is actually running when you make this cheatsheet, and make the
    paper exactly as wide as the edges of gunbound's screen... not necessarily the
    glass part of your monitor or even the visible area you see on your desktop.

    Fixed power shooting tips:

    First, a link that helps explain visually what I'm talking about:

    And now the tips:

    *Make the cheatsheet, it helps a lot and nobody has to know. If you don't make
    the cheatsheet, memorize as many screen landmarks as you can. You might also
    want to mark down turtle's high angle landing points on your sheet, just divide
    it into 10 even parts with a different colored marker/pen.

    *Spend time between turns calculating the angle by making liberal use of right
    click to measure how far the enemy is from you in terms of screen distance. This
    is easier when you're playing a 4vs4 game and have a lot of time to measure and
    calculate wind adjustment. You should even go as far as to say "ok I will use
    angle X if the wind is like this, and if the wind is 2 more or 2 less I will go
    with angle Y"... it helps to mentally talk over what angle you need because that
    angle will stick in your head if your position gets disturbed later.

    *If your angle is ruined and you have to walk forward or back to regain the
    correct angle, remember that in the process of walking you have changed the
    angle you need to shoot at, and you should take a few seconds to re-measure.
    Once you get good at using fixed power, you can judge how many angles to adjust
    your shot just by eyeballing the distance you made turtle walk. Usually it's
    only 1 or 2 angles difference. Remember also to recalculate if the enemy walks
    or has his position changed by someone's shot.

    *Remember that a height difference will alter the angle you need to shoot at. If
    an enemy is below you, you need to shoot at a higher angle than your cheatsheet
    would indicate. If the enemy is above you, you need to lower your angle. The
    shot is following a 'rainbow' path, remember. Let's say you put yourself under
    your all/teamtalk button and you see an enemy positioned above your half power
    mark. From the section above, all-to-half-power is angle 80. However if the
    enemy is quite a bit below you, the shot will only pass the half power mark when
    it is perfectly even with your mobile's body. Then as it continues to travel,
    it's moving forward as well as down, and it will pass the angle 79 mark, then
    78, then 77... etc... until it finally hits ground. If the enemy was directly
    below the half power mark, you'll notice your shot's forward momentum carries it
    past them and you'll be off by 1 or 2 angles. The same principle applies to an
    enemy above you. You must visualize a specific shot path and then try to imagine
    whether or not the enemy is in the way of your shot as it travels to a
    destination somewhere beyond their body. If you don't account for a height
    difference and lower your angle, your shot will end up landing directly below
    the enemy and not actually touch them.

    *Fixed power is tricky in different winds, and when you mix in height
    differences you might find yourself unable to decide which of 2 angles is
    correct to hit the enemy. You might even find that the opponent is situated
    almost directly between two different angles. In those situations, it's
    acceptible to vary your power and try to cheat the system a little... for
    example if you think angle 80 might fall a little short and you're scared angle
    79 passes over the enemy's head, try angle 80 with 2.5 bars instead. If it turns
    out angle 80 at 2.4 bars would be dead on, you still might get an acceptible hit
    with 2.5 bars.

    *Remember that when wind is down or against, your maximum range for 2.4 bar
    shots is shorter than usual. You may only be able to hit enemies about half a
    screen away. Also remember that because of the nature of turtle's shot 2, a shot
    against the wind might hit the enemy but still not have enough time in the air
    to merge into a tight stream. The same problem can happen when firing at an
    opponent far above you... the aim is correct but the shots just don't have time
    to come together before contact. In these situations you should still try shot
    2, and if you can only get a half hit, move to shot 1 instead until conditions

    *You can shoot beyond 1 screen when the wind is helping your shot, and you don't
    need to increase power... for example if angle 60 hits 1 screen away in 0 wind,
    and you have 6 wind blowing towards the target, an angle 60 shot at 2.4 bars
    will travel about 1.05 screens. You can use this to your advantage when an enemy
    is more than 1 screen away and you don't want to hassle with high angle shots.

    ****Wind adjustment: (also copied and pasted from my armor guide, some of it
    might not be perfectly accurate due to slight differences between armor and
    turtle's shots)

    From my experience, adjusting for wind with any bot at any fixed power is nearly
    the same. Using the adjustments I'd use for high angling with cake has served me
    well for using turtle/armor 2.4 bar method.
    Wind adjustment works like this: figure out the angle you need in 0 wind.
    If wind is up or towards the opponent or both, raise angle to compensate.

    If wind is against you or down, lower the angle to compensate. Remeber that if
    you are using a maximum power of 2.4 bars, you cannot reach certain distances
    when wind is against you... for example if you try to hit someone at angle 70
    with 20 wind against you, you will fall short always. So in moderate or strong
    wind blowing against you, I recommend you abandon using the 2.4 bar formula.
    It's still ok when wind is blowing towards the enemy.

    For calculating wind adjustments, look at the wind power, round down to the
    nearest even number (i.e. 25 wind is really 24 wind)... then divide wind power
    by a certain number. The number you use is based on wind direction.
    A note about turtle: I realized recently that 1 wind difference DOES matter to
    turtle. I don't know if that's always been true for all bots, but high angle and
    fixed power shots do land in slightly different places if there's a different
    wind from the last shot. Before, I'd always treated 19 and 18 wind as the same
    thing, or 4 and 5 wind as the same, etc.

    Here's a wind adjustment chart, I hope you get it:

    Also remember that at very close ranges, wind adjustments become skewed and
    you're better off not screwing around with formula shots.


    It is possible to use a fixed 3 bar shooting method with turtle. The actual
    power you should use varies:
    Inside half a screen (not recommended): 2.8 bars
    1/2 to 1 full screen distance: 2.95 bars
    past 1 screen (1.5 screen max): 3.05 bars

    Using this system, you calculate the angle using some different landmarks from
    the 2.4 method. Using 3 bar system:
    1/2 screen = angle 80
    1 screen = angle 70
    1.4 screens = angle 60

    So half a screen is 10 angles, 1/4 of a screen is 5 angles. The distance
    between angles is larger using the 3 bar system than the distance between
    angles using the 2.4 method. That is only logical - the more power you use, the
    further the shot will travel with a small angle change.
    A useful landmark (for me) if you already know the 2.4 bar system and want to
    learn the 3 bar system is to treat 5 angles distance (using 3 bar) as about the
    same as 7 angles distance at 2.4 bars of power.

    Advantages of 3 bar:
    *Can make calculated shots beyond 1 screen distance without resorting to
    full power shots, which can be more difficult to estimate perfectly.
    *Sometimes in downward wind, 2.4 bars of power won't keep shot 2 in the air
    long enough to allow the 2 streams to merge together. The result can be
    a half hit if you try to fire with just 2.4 bars of power, even if you
    choose the best possible angle to shoot with.
    Turtle can switch to the 3.05 bar system to ensure there is enough airtime.
    *In upward winds, 3 bars is near the minimum you need to make a good high
    angle SS shot, one that opens at the very top of the shot's arc. If you can
    already estimate where shots will land under the 3 bar system, you will have
    some idea of how to make a decent SS shot in the right wind conditions.
    *If wind is against or down, you can't even reach 1 screen's distance using
    2.4 bars, and it becomes necessary to use more power to hit an enemy about
    1 screen away.

    Disadvantages of 3 bar:
    *Inside of 1 screen, using 3 bar is usually unnecessary and makes the shot
    harder to estimate.
    *The wind chart for 3 bar shots is a little bit different, and if you're already
    used to 2.4, you might find yourself calculating wind incorrectly.
    *The distance between 2 angles using this method is large... large enough for a
    mobile to hide so that one angle might go to far, but the next higher angle
    comes a bit short, and neither can successfully hit the target. In such
    situations it becomes necessary to find the correct angle and also adjust your
    power a bit.

    PART 2:

    Using SS:

    The SS must spend about 3 seconds in the air before it 'deploys' (opens). If you
    play bo**** or armor you're familiar with that idea. The catch with turtle is
    that after the shot opens, it spreads out into a bunch of small balls and these
    balls tend to fall in a flat spray that covers a lot of ground. Each ball only
    does 100 damage or a bit less, so if most of what you shoot splatters on the
    ground then you're looking at a really weak 100-200 damage SS unless you aim it
    very very carefully.
    It's not enough to keep turtle's SS in the air 3 seconds, you must also try not
    to keep it in the air too long because the shot spreads out too much.

    There are two ways to aim the SS to make a decent impact and hit with 5 or more
    balls. You may wish to check out my visual aids first then read the following
    info on how to use the SS:


    I love the 'timebomb' SS method. The idea is to fire your SS so that it
    opens up a fraction of a second before hitting the enemy. If it deploys at
    pointblank range, it doesn't matter much what direction the small waterblobs try
    to move in, because they're going to smack the enemy's mobile before they have a
    chance to spread out. If your SS opens too early, only 1 or 2 balls hit for
    minimal damage. If it opens too late, you do the embarassing 'plop' shot and hit
    the enemy before the blob opens. The result is about the same, a crappy bit of
    200 damage and a huge waste of delay. So if turtle's SS opens in 3.0 seconds,
    your goal is to find a shot that will stay in the air between 3.05 and 3.2
    seconds. It sounds impossibly hard but it's not if you have a formula to start
    out with.

    The basic short range SS:

    0 wind
    Angle 75
    1.9 bars power (about 49% of your full meter)
    Distance = From your all button to the half power mark.

    -So to recap, first you right click and drag the all button under your turtle
    (assuming the target is on the right). Next you check to see if the enemy is
    positioned over your half power (2 bar) mark.

    -You choose angle 75 if wind is 0 or 1.

    -Finally, shoot with just a bit less than 2 bars... just barely under half
    your power meter.

    If the enemy is level with you and all other conditions are met, this SS is good
    for 450ish damage at least. The thing is, how often are you going to get perfect
    conditions like that? Well, you won't always get them but there are some tricks
    you can use to adjust to different wind, different distance, and different

    Modifying the basic SS for wind, terrain, distance, etc:

    *Adjust for wind the same way you'd adjust when doing fixed power or high angle
    shots... for example if I'd be shooting at angle 75 in 0 wind, I'd lower to
    angle 74 if wind was 2 against me. I'd raise to 78 if wind was 6 towards the
    target. You have to understand wind compensation before you have a hope of using
    the SS.
    Also note that in very strong wind you will have a hard time 'timing' the SS
    properly, even if your aim is spot on, for example in strong wind pointing down,
    you could lower your angle to 72 or so and then shoot at 1.9 bars and hit the
    enemy, but because the wind is shoving your shot down it hits the enemy earlier
    than you'd expect. You end up doing a 'plop' and the SS never opens up.
    Therefore in downward wind or strong wind against, you must get creative and
    shoot with more power and with less adjustment to your angle. You may even find
    that in downwind you can leave your angle alone (shoot at 75 still) and simply
    shoot harder to compensate for the wind by feeling.
    At the other end of the spectrum, if wind is blowing strongly towards the enemy,
    you may need to shoot almost straight up, and what happens is the shot goes up,
    hangs for a second, then is abruptly blown towards the enemy. For shots like
    this, the shot is actually in the air a longer time than you'd expect and you SS
    will open a bit early and result in a crappy hit. So you must shoot at a lower
    angle and reduce power slightly.

    Some examples of the basic 75 angle SS in different wind:

    Wind 10 towards the enemy: I'd shoot angle 81, 1.9 bars.
    Wind 6 up and against me: Angle 72, 1.85 bars. Normally this is 2 angle
    adjustments for wind diagonally up and against, but because the wind is
    upward the SS will spend more time in the air and open early. To get a good
    hit, I must use less power than usual, then compensate by lowering my angle
    1 more. If I didn't lower 1 more, then 1.85 bars of power would make my SS
    land a bit in front of them.

    Wind 10 straight down: Angle 75, 2.15 bars.
    Wind 8 straight up: Angle 75, 1.7 bars.
    Wind 14 against: Angle 67, 1.9 bars. You compensate 8 angles for 14 wind.
    Wind 20 towards: Normally I'd adjust 12 angles, so I'd go from 75 to 87 with 1.9
    bars. But I find the SS opens up early in that situation. So I'd lower to 85,
    1.8 bars.

    *Adjusting for height differences is sort of based on feel. Remember that at
    angle 75, 1.9 bars, your SS explodes when it's roughly level with your mobile.
    If the enemy is a few cm's below you, that means it's going to explode early. So
    how do we get it to explode later, closer to the enemy on the lower level?

    First you need to reduce power, which means the shot spends less time in the
    air. But if you reduce power, then angle 75 is no longer good enough to hit the
    opponent. So you must compensate for your decreased power by lowering the angle.
    How much to lower it? I don't have a perfect formula yet but a good rule of
    thumb is to lower it 2 angles for every 'finger' of power you reduce your
    strength. So let's say you decide the correct power to hit the enemy is 2
    fingers less than usual, which is about 2.8 bars. You therefore want to lower 4
    angles about, so shoot at 71 instead of 75.

    Similarly, if the enemy is on a platform above you, you need to keep the SS in
    the air longer. You would increase power, and also raise your angle to keep the
    SS from flying too far past the enemy. Use the same method described above to
    decide how many angles to alter your shot... but keep in mind that the closer
    the enemy gets to you, the less you have to worry about raising your angle. If
    your math tells you to shoot at angle 90 in 0 wind, you're probably doing
    something wrong ;D.

    *Compensating for distance differences isn't too bad. Basically, think in terms
    of 8 angles = about half of your normal shot distance, which is 1/3rd of a
    screen. Therefore, if you need to shoot 1.5 times the usual distance, lower
    your angle by 7 or 8. If you need to shoot half the usual distance, raise
    your angle by 7 or 8 (7 if they're a bit further than half, 8 if closer).

    If you don't understand all this and are worried you're going to screw up, find
    a buddy who is willing to practice with you and go into jewel mode. Figure out
    the maximum and minimum ranges for 1.9 bars power, and figure out which angles
    hit where in low wind. Play with SSdeath mode so you can practice a lot, and aim
    for jewels so that you can see how much damage you're getting... but don't try
    to actually win. You want to shoot the basic 75 SS over and over until you get a
    feel for it at different winds and distances.

    Math problem time:

    -The enemy is about 1.5 times further than the usual angle 75 SS distance.

    -The wind is 3 against you.

    -The enemy is higher than you and you guess that you'd need to increase your
    power by about 2 fingers to keep the SS in the air long enough.
    What angle and power SS should you try?

    Well, first I position my needle for the basic angle 75, 1.9 bar SS.
    Second I see that the enemy is about 1.5 times the usual SS distance, so
    I need to lower my angle by 7 or 8. Let's call it 8.
    Now I'm at angle 67.
    Next I see wind is 3 against me. I lower 1 angle to compensate, angle 66.
    Now I see that the enemy is above me, and I'm going to shoot at about 2.1 bars
    instead of the usual 1.9 bars. I compensate 4 angles for 2 fingers of added
    power. Therefore my final result is angle 66, 2.1 bars.

    That's a lot of math and it really helps if you do all this stuff between turns,
    and it also helps if you've fired a test shot first... because none of my
    formulas are perfect.

    Other good known SSes:
    47 2.3 bars = 1 screen (needs more testi

  2. #2
    Marios's Mustache Wax Reputation: 10
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    i caN READ THE WORDS 50mm tal ok... best site 4 u!!

  3. #3
    Ape for Diddy Reputation: 10
    Nefari's Avatar
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    Very informative and helpful.

  4. #4
    Banned Reputation: 10

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    turtle ss fixed shot is 2 bars + or - some

    average ss should look something like this
    Last edited by magicjubin; 05-30-2006 at 07:20 PM.

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